| Flatbob | -- 04-08-2013 @ 9:29 AM |
|
Want to put headlight switch on the dash on my '36, what would be the best way to do this, would a headlight harness for a '40 make this the easiest way to go? A starter button will also be located on the dash, could I pick up power for the headlight switch off one side of the starter button?The car will have a 12V system and alternator equipped, do I keep he fuse block mounted on the firewall or replace with something more modern?
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-08-2013 @ 9:54 AM |
|
This is a somewhat more complicated job than just installing a switch, as the high/low beams are also controlled by the original switch on the end of the steering column, as are the parking lights. If you don't want to install a foot operated dimmer switch, you can install a two position toggle with a center off poition, or rotary switch at the dash fed by a source from the master fuse, a yellow red wire. Locate the low beam wires to the headlights, black/red, and the high beam side, black/green. With the switch fed at the center, the high beam wires are at one side of the switch, and the lows to the other side. With the switch in the center position, lights are off. If you use a double pole switch, the unused side can operate the dash and tail lights in both the upper and lower position, as they are also controlled by the original switch. The stop light switch is not switched, but is always on. If you need a circuit diagram for your '36, I can post one.
|
|
| Flatbob | -- 04-08-2013 @ 1:06 PM |
|
Super thanks for the help, SPEEDWAY offers a switch that has hi/low built into it which should make the job a little easier. Looks I might need a fuse block for this job
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-08-2013 @ 2:40 PM |
|
The stock '36 has a fuse built into the wiring. If you are going to 12 volts, the amperage will be half that of 6 volts, so it should be fine. We prefer to use the pushbutton reset breakers rather than fuses.
|
|
| Flatbob | -- 04-08-2013 @ 6:38 PM |
|
Supereal, I see SPEEDWAY offers an 8 push in fuse block and will use that as you suggest.
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-09-2013 @ 1:44 PM |
|
Old Henry didn't have much use for such niceties as fuses, air cleaners, and other "frippery". We separate the various circuits in old vehicles as most of the original wiring insulation is deteriorated. One of the best, and least expensive, additions to your car is a master cutoff switch on one pole of the battery. Such a switch for about thirteen bucks could save your car and your garage. We buy ours at C&G, item # A-14300-C, 800/266-0470. Most parts suppliers have them. An inexpensive fire extinguisher onboard is also recommended. You would be amazed at how quickly an old car can burn! This message was edited by supereal on 4-9-13 @ 1:46 PM
|
|
| flatheadfan | -- 04-09-2013 @ 11:46 PM |
|
Flatbob- You will probably get a lot of suggestions about wiring but, I agree with Bob (Supereal). Start by wiring in a master cut-off switch. In the case of my '35 and '36 I just used existing frame holes. I try to avoid drilling holes in the frame/body, at all costs. The location of the master switch is under the hood, easy to get at and simple to hook up and yet not obtrusive. Tom
|
|
| flatheadfan | -- 04-09-2013 @ 11:54 PM |
|
And, another view.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=5914 |