| rogbell | -- 01-12-2010 @ 3:28 PM |
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My '41 has woodgraining on the dash. I applied painters tape to the dash when installing the windshield trim. Unfortunately, when I removed the tape it also removed the woodgraining. Is there a kit or some combination of paints and other necessary items to repair an area of about 2"x5"? I don't want to pull the dash and everything else again.
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| Stroker | -- 01-12-2010 @ 4:08 PM |
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It is time to "pull the dash", and consult one of the woodgraining services advertised in the V8 Times. There is no way you will acceptably match the damage.
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| Savvy | -- 01-12-2010 @ 4:49 PM |
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On a related matter.... My original'34 Deluxe Sedan window molding and dash woodgraining is present, but the original top laquer coat is peely and rough. I plan to wet sand using 380+ grit then re-applying a new top clear coat. I figure the only harm is wasting my time and money. Has any one attempted this solution before? Cheers!
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| alanwoodieman | -- 01-13-2010 @ 5:46 AM |
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use a much finer sand paper first, 1000 grit and go very slow, it will be more time consuming but the outcome will be better. I overcoated the woodgraining on a Hudson for my father in law some years ago and we used clear enamel as this did not tend to lift the woodgraing
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| supereal | -- 01-13-2010 @ 6:07 AM |
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It is nearly impossible to spot repair woodgraining. If you want a permanent finish it is necessary to remove the old paint down to bare metal because of the probable conflict with the existing paint. More often than not, it will "lift" the new paint. I redid the maple grain finish on my '47 convertible several years ago. After much trial, and mostly error, I discovered that it was better to lay on the lighter base coat, then put on the grain pattern with a series of shaggy bristle brushes. When I was satisfied with the result, several coats of clear spray polyurethane sealed it. It still looks fresh today, even though more that ten years have passed. I have had people remark about the "wooden" dash and garnish. If you are a perfectionist, I'd consult an professional, as it took much of one winter to get the technique mastered.
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| Savvy | -- 01-13-2010 @ 4:54 PM |
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Thanks! I'll give it a try. Cheers!
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| TomO | -- 01-14-2010 @ 7:52 AM |
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If you are going to try wood graining, first buy some 6"x12" rectangles of steel for practice. I used 4 of them while experimenting. Next prime them on both sides and paint them with the base (light color). Buy some gel stain that is close in color to the darker color and a large can of mineral spirits to clean up your mistakes. If your dash has straight grain vs burl grain, you should buy a graining comb. This is a rubber rectangle with different size slots on each side. Practice with the comb until you get grain that looks like your dash. If you look at a real piece of wood, you will notice that there are many little specs that make up the grain. I have found that the best way to duplicate them is by holding a stick in one of your hands and hitting it with a cheap bristle brush dipped in thinned gel stain, then taking a dragging brush to extend the drops into small lines. Let this dry completely and then put on another coat of gel stain using your graining comb. This is a messy process, it takes quite a bit of time to get proficient at it and it must be done in a well ventilated area away from any flame source. There is a company in the western suburbs of Chicago, that has a process where they float an ink pattern on water and then transfer it on to your dash. They then clear coat the dash. The process is quick and the company has a short turn around time and is less expensive than buying the Grain-It kits. If you are interested, I'll look around for their brochure. Tom
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| 1934 Ford | -- 01-16-2010 @ 11:14 AM |
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For the do-it-yourself crowd (that's me and most of my friends) getting the professional woodgraining is to expensive. I've been using this ink method for 25 years and have loaned my supplies to dozens of guys in our club. We're all happy in the end, but it takes some frustration in the doing to make it appreciated as a finished product. Here is an article I wrote on how to do it in 1985. I hope it helps you, if you do-it yourself. This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 1-16-10 @ 11:16 AM
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| Savvy | -- 01-16-2010 @ 11:36 AM |
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Sounds tempting.... If re-clearcoating doesn't work, I'll try that technique next. Got any pics, Rembrandt? This message was edited by Savvy on 1-16-10 @ 11:38 AM
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| flatheadfan | -- 01-18-2010 @ 2:30 AM |
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Tom- Do you have any details on the Chicago woodgrain source? Thanks Tom
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| TomO | -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:24 AM |
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Tom, here is a link to their site. http://mmcustomfinishing.com/Site/Home.html Tom
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| TomO | -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:30 AM |
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1934Ford, I agree that the ink method is easier to use for a novice, than the gel stain, but the ink and solvents are difficult to find. I tried that method when it was published in Skinned Knuckles and then gave away my supplies. When I tried to buy more in the middle 1990's, it was not available in the Chicago area due to environmental controls. Tom
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| flatheadfan | -- 01-18-2010 @ 7:56 AM |
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Tom O - Thanks for the web site. Tom
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