| sunflower | -- 03-28-2013 @ 11:09 AM |
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I did a search and topic did not come up can someone repost an old question.Thanks sunflower
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| supereal | -- 03-28-2013 @ 1:57 PM |
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What year do you have? It does make a difference.
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| sunflower | -- 03-29-2013 @ 4:47 AM |
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I have a 1935Ford. Thanks sunflower
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| supereal | -- 03-29-2013 @ 11:06 AM |
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Here is the procedure: 1. Back off all brake adjusters on the backing plates. 2. Remove clevis pins on the wheel end of all brake rods. 3. Block the brake pedal down halfway. 4. With the wheels off the ground, adjust the clevis on each brake rod until the lining just contacts the drum and the pin can be reinserted without moving the lever. This part of the process equalizes the rod lengths. No further adjustment of the rods is required, or should be done. 5. Remove the block from the brake pedal. Using the adjuster on each backing plate, advance the shoes unit the shoes contact the drum, then back off until they are free. 6. Check the pedal to see how much it must be pushed until the brakes are set. If beyond half way, the rod between the pedal and the cross shaft should be adjusted, and the parking brake adjusted, if necessary, by adjusting the rod to the cross shaft. This adjustment procedure should provide braking to slide all four wheels in a "panic" stop. If not, repeat the procedure. It assumes that all clevises and pins are not badly worn, the linings are adequate, the wedges are in good shape, and the cross shaft bearings do not have excessive play. When in good condition, and when properly adjusted, mechanical brakes can be as effective as the later hydraulic type. Many problems are caused by trying to adjust the brakes by moving the clevises instead of the adjusters. This message was edited by supereal on 3-29-13 @ 11:40 AM
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| sunflower | -- 03-29-2013 @ 11:42 AM |
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Thank you supereal I will print this out for future reference. Thanks sunflower
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| Henryat1140 | -- 03-31-2013 @ 3:29 PM |
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Just to add a little to what Superreal has said. 1. The cross shaft should be carefully inspected for play. Even a little looseness in this part will prevent a successful adjustment. Originally there was no way to lubricate the cross shaft and wear developed quickly. Since the cross shaft is under spring tension that tends to mask the problem, so you need to unhook the return spring to properly check this. ANY detectible wear is cause for a rebuild with new shaft and modern oilite bushings. 2. Over the years the brake rods tend to get bent so they are not completely straight. Any energy applied to the brake will have to first go to getting a straight pull on the rods. You can remove the rods individually and roll on a flat surface this will disclose slight bends. Needless to say, you want the rods absolutely straight. 3. It's worthwhile to pay close attention to the rod guides. The guides can get twisted or bent out of position putting additional friction on the rods. You can check this by semi installing the rods without hooking up the ends, but putting them through the guide and seeing if the guide is pointing them for a good fit at either end. Bend the guides as necessary. Ideally there should be no friction or impeding the movement of the rod by the guide. For those who might need a cross shaft rebuild, you can contact me by PM. IMO Getting mechanical brakes to work well is mostly labor (low $) it's a matter of inspecting each and every component and removing wear as needed. Mechanical brakes in good condition and adjustment are FINE for the kind of driving we normally do.
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| Henryat1140 | -- 04-01-2013 @ 6:01 AM |
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. . . . and they never go 'squish' <g>
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