| DEAN333 | -- 03-09-2013 @ 7:43 PM |
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I would like to replace the head nuts on my 36 with the correct unpainted ones. Can I do one at a time without affecting the integrity of the head gasket seal? TIM CARLIG
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-09-2013 @ 8:17 PM |
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Just two or three to install a bracket is OK, but all forty two nuts is just asking for trouble. At issue is not only the head gasket, but the studs, of which one or two may not survive the torque. I'd say the extra work of cleaning up the existing nuts would be preferable to opening a can of worms. If you want to do it anyway, you should count aand plan on the complete job of removing the heads. You'll not get away with doing it half way. Alan
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| DEAN333 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 10:46 AM |
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Thanks Alan. I kinda' thought so. I have 2 nuts that were missing the washers and were the thickness of the washer away from the head. One nut came off but the other drew the stud out with it. I'll leave the others alone until I'm ready to do a valve job next winter. TIM CARLIG
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| kubes40 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 3:24 PM |
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Dean, I have done what you are thinking of doing numerous times. I have replaced ONLY ONE at a time. Torque it down and go to the next. If you remove a stud, no big deal. Clean the threads thoroughly, put some sealer on the threads and replace the stud. THEN, install the respective nut and torque. Remember, one at a time.
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| Stroker | -- 03-10-2013 @ 3:58 PM |
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Kube: Thanks for documenting what I have been thinking about for some time. When I rebuilt my engine in my 38, I just assumed that like all rebuilds, you spray the engine "engine-color" before you install. Now that I have learned some of the finer points of "correctness", I realize that this is wrong. Good to hear from someone who has tried this trick. I was originally thinking about power-wire brushing the nuts, and then attempting to mask them off before re-coating with paint.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 4:09 PM |
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Mike, attack the problem one nut at a time.... Why didn't I think of that? Good on ya! Alan
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| MG | -- 03-10-2013 @ 4:43 PM |
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One nut at a time using the torque-down sequence to remove and replace the nuts.....
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| kubes40 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 5:58 PM |
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Perhaps I am reading too much in to this. However, I must ask, If you painted the cylinder heads, I must assume they are cast iron. Yes? If they are in fact cast iron, then there should NOT be washers beneath the nuts.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 6:30 PM |
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Good catch, Mike. Alan
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| DEAN333 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 8:16 PM |
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Ok Guys, maybe I wasn't clear. I wanted to replace the nuts ONE AT A TIME. I have cast iron heads..#68 6049/50. The '36 book doesn't say anything about washers under the nuts on the cast iron, only on the aluminum heads. In fact, 2nuts on one head and 3 on the other don't have washers. ?? Alan, you disagree at first but then later seem to agree it's ok. Which one of you is Mike? TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 8:33 PM |
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I haven't painted the heads, I got the car the way it is. I'm trying to make it correct. It had a '41 intake manifold and distributor. I have the correct parts now, in the process of installing them. TIM CARLIG
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-10-2013 @ 8:42 PM |
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Dean, Mike is Kubes40, the author of the upcoming '40 Ford book. Yes, I had been thinking of random replacement. MG has the way to go: Remove and replace one at a time in the correct torque sequence. No washers on cast iron heads! Alan
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| DEAN333 | -- 03-11-2013 @ 7:30 AM |
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Thanks Alan, Mike and the rest. To further clarify, the heads are painted, just not by me. TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 03-21-2013 @ 7:36 PM |
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Just a follow-up Guys: I replaced the nuts one-at-a-time. I had one stud on each head come out with the nut frozen. One I cut the nut off and the other came off after a few minutes of heat from my newly-purchased Benzomatic torch. TIM CARLIG
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