| Ronald | -- 03-01-2013 @ 11:28 AM |
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I have a '36 Ford 5-window coupe with mechanical brakes. They work OK but I'm curious about "brake energizer kits". Is there anyone who has installed a set? If so, how'd they work? I priced going hydraulic and find that's pretty expensive..... $2300 and $3000 are the quote I got for parts.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 03-01-2013 @ 4:38 PM |
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put a set on a 34, have to be very careful when adjusting each wheel to have them as equal as possible, then adjust rods to fit each individual wheel--follow the old brake adjustment instructions to the letter. when properly adjusted I feel they are equal to hydraulic brakes in my 40
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| transbytip | -- 03-01-2013 @ 9:43 PM |
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Ronald, put kit on my 36 4 door convert.sedan work great ,will slide tires if necessary.Cliff. with reguards Cliff. Tipton
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| Brendan | -- 03-03-2013 @ 8:15 AM |
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are you talking about Flathead Teds floaters? I put a set on my 36 pickup and had the shoes relined with soft linings. also had the drums turned and shoes arced. my pickup stops very good. I drive it all the time but not on the freeway Can't spell my way out of a paper bag!
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| Henryat1140 | -- 03-09-2013 @ 6:13 PM |
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. . . From a traditionalist. My opinion: Mechanical brakes in stock configuration are FINE and ENTIRELY ADEQUATE for most driving conditions we face when using our cars. If properly maintained and adjusted they are _almost_ the equivalent of hydraulics - but without the added cost and complexity. And they will never go SQUISH. Working on mechanical brakes is nearly 100% labor, going through the various linkages removing slop and wear, for example where the clevis pins go through the brake rods. Making sure each brake rod is 100% straight. Rebuilding the cross shaft if needed (many do because of no provision for lubing}, having the shoes fit to the drum if possible. Really; just look at an service every point on each wheel where wear can develop and correct it. If you put the time and effort and commitment into making your mechanical brakes right you will have a system good enough for anything except possibly 70mph freeway driving. Just my 2c <soapbox mode OFF>
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| dicker | -- 03-18-2013 @ 5:46 PM |
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Ronald, I have had a set of "floaters" on my 1936 convertible sedan for more than 15 years and they still work just fine. The only trouble is that the car can go faster than the car can stop. I usually cruise at 60 and drive defensively. Are you listed on the list of 36 4dr convertible owners? Slantback or trunkback? BTW my floaters were the original ones from pre-ww2 and the newer ones could be much better. dicker Dick Kurtz
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| terryp | -- 04-02-2013 @ 10:21 AM |
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I rebuilt my 35 5W brakes 13 years ago and they worked great; for a while. I am a purist so decided against the juice brake conversion and gambled the $50 for a set of brake floaters. Even though I used the "Brake Doctor" centering grinder during the initial overhaul, when pulling the drums the shoes showed about 1/2 contact area each. Not good. The floaters are outstanding. They have been on my car for about 5 years and I was able to lock all four Coker Classics during a panic stop last summer and stopped arrow straight. If you wanna be real sneaky, cut the wedge off of the brake adjusters and screw them into the backing plate so it looks like you have original wedges. The floaters adjust via starwheel through the vacated adjuster hole. I gotta say that the floaters and a 1946 roller sector steering box are the two best mods I have made to my 35 5W while still preserving originality.Good Luck! TerryP
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