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46fordnut
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-- 02-28-2013 @ 12:43 PM
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trying to figure out why my gas gauge in not working. took an ohm meter that seems to give me the ohms i need. then grounded the power wire gauge goes full. i took the time to even measure the fuel in the tank i have about 2.5 inches in the tank of gas. tank measures 6.5 inches from top to bottom. what would 2.5 inches be in fuel level? i was thinking less then 1/4 tank.
100 horse running wild
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rotorwrench
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-- 02-28-2013 @ 4:17 PM
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If it is a King Seeley system then it is a current based system. These systems use bi-metalic strips with little heater coils wrapped around the strip and a set of points at the tips of the bi-metalic strips. One bi-metalic breaker is in the sender and one is in the indicator unit. They didn't use a variable resistance rheostat like many of the other manufacturers did and still do.
It sounds like your indicator is working but there may be something wrong with the sender. The little heating coil can break down and the little bitty points can get dirty. You can pop the cap off of these type senders and check them out further if that's the type you have. I assume you are working on a 46 model.
This message was edited by rotorwrench on 2-28-13 @ 4:19 PM
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46fordnut
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-- 02-28-2013 @ 4:36 PM
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yes 1946 super deluxe 4 door, took sender out tested it with ohm meter seems to work that way . just does not work in the car .. tried new ground still nothing. i think gas just maybe to low.
100 horse running wild
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supereal
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-- 02-28-2013 @ 8:24 PM
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If you ground the wire from the sender, and the gauge swings, the gauge is OK, as is the wire to it. Pull the sender from the tank, and with the sender base grounded, move the arm and observe the gauge. If it moves with the arm, either the float is sinking, or the arm is out of adjustment. Remember, the gauge needle is moved by a bimetal strip, so it takes some time to register. This keeps the gauge needle from swinging with the movement of the fuel as you drive. The gauge is the powered part, and the sender provides proportionate ground as the arm moves. As mentioned above, in the original system, a heated bimetal element buzzes, and the contacts provide a varying ground. In the replacement type, a resistor with a moving pickup does the job. When the arm is properly adjusted, the gauge will be at empty with a couple of gallons in the tank as a kind of emergency reserve in case you forgot to fill up.
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46fordnut
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-- 03-01-2013 @ 5:35 AM
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OK...ill check that out ..and thank you .i did test the gauge with the sender out of the tank and it seemed to work fine..gauge went up when i moved the float up. and the gauge went down when i moved the float down.
100 horse running wild
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supereal
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-- 03-01-2013 @ 8:36 AM
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I'd just fill the tank and see what happens. I suspect that your problem was too little gas in the tank to register. That helps keep us from running out when the gauge says "empty". Modern vehicles seem to do the same, and running an intank pump with an empty, or near empty, tank will shorten the pump life, or kill it, altogether. The average cost of replacing an intank pump can run hundreds of dollars, and more on some vehicles if the tank has to be removed to get at the pump. I never let the tank get below 1/4 on our cars and trucks.
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46fordnut
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-- 03-01-2013 @ 9:06 AM
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got it fixed . thanks guys!!! trouble was dirty mount for the sender and low gas. now i won't do the new guy thing and run out of fuel  p.s my old car has no after market pump . just the oem style
100 horse running wild
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