| 37coop | -- 02-15-2013 @ 7:40 AM |
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h*llo i,m putting new running board rubbers on my 39 coupe , i,v been told its best to put filler (bondo)on first to smooth over the ridges so the rubber goes onto a smooth surface ,any advice on this one , thanks ...jim ,u.k
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| supereal | -- 02-15-2013 @ 10:32 AM |
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If you have serious dents in the steel part of the running boards, they should be hammered out and smoothed with a disk grinder. As the rubber covers are mounted with adhesive, you need to have a flat metal surface for maximum adhesion, or bubbles are likely to appear.
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| 37coop | -- 02-15-2013 @ 2:01 PM |
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thanks for that ...they are a set of repro running boards i,v had for many years and they have been never been used ,they have shallow ,ridges going the length,its to fill the ridges or not that i wanted to know ....the running boards are the same as my original 40 boards,thanks
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| alanwoodieman | -- 02-15-2013 @ 9:12 PM |
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original covers were moulded on the boards-the covers you are installing are smooth and will not fill the welding seems, slight factory "dents", etc -so fill the boards as smooth as possible and when the covers go on they will be smooth also-one suggestion-do not sand the boards super smooth 180 or 200 grit is OK or put on too much paint
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| flatheadfan | -- 02-16-2013 @ 7:05 AM |
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Jim- No problem using bondo. I have used it on running boards without a problem. A suggestion, bolt the raw boards on the car before doing anything. This will show you where body work will be needed to fill shallow spots or grind down high spots. Don't try to do everything off the car. From my experience, you can have a super-nice finished set of recovered boards but when you bolt them on the car the welded vertical supports will distort the board alignment either up or down making your efforts look 2nd rate. With original boards the vulcanized rubber the factory added was thick enough to hide the weld spots as well as the low and high spots. Hope this helps. Tom
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| 37coop | -- 02-16-2013 @ 1:49 PM |
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thanks folks , just joined the forum although i,v been a member here in the u.k for around 30 years ,been so helpfull already ,should have joined long ago,i will apply the bondo and crack on with the job tomorrow , cheers , jim.
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| supereal | -- 02-16-2013 @ 8:10 PM |
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The running board replacement pros use a clamping form to produce a smooth result. Otherwise, unless you are better at it than I,was, it is unlikely you will be fully pleased. The easiest type to replace are the "shoebox" type that envelope the base. If the running boards are removed, the orginal fasteners, particularly those using caged nuts, which are always rusted, making removal very tough.
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| 37coop | -- 02-17-2013 @ 12:34 PM |
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thanks for all advice ,the rubbers are the "shoebox type and all nuts /bolts are off the car ,the bit i,m dreading is as its a contact glue it doesnt give much allowance for repositioning if the first touch isnt quite right ...the fun of old cars ...cheers ,jim.
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| TomO | -- 02-18-2013 @ 7:09 AM |
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Use strips of cardboard cut from a heavy duty shipping box to separate the rubber and the board. Space them about 5" apart and then remove them one at a time as you get the cover positioned in the right place. The cardboard will not stick to the contact cement. Tom
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