| MG | -- 02-06-2013 @ 11:09 AM |
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I'm doing a valve job on my '34 e/w with aluminum heads. I purchased a set of FEL-PRO head gaskets for the job. These gaskets are steel clad on both sides. I'm concerned about electrolysis and wondering if I should use a different type gasket. Your thoughts and recommendations please........ BTW - the heads are 21 stud original type as reproduced by John Scoble - KEARNEY PATTERN WORKS & FOUNDRY This message was edited by MG on 2-6-13 @ 12:20 PM
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| supereal | -- 02-06-2013 @ 1:51 PM |
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Steel is fine. We prefer those rather than copper faced to reduce electolysis. It is a very good idea to have your heads checked and lightly resurfaced before reinstallation.
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| chas34 | -- 02-07-2013 @ 7:02 AM |
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Quite a few guys recommend an anode hanging in your radiator inlet to sacrifice versus the sacrifice of your heads ... can be purchased from most of the parts dealers (Mac's, etc.) ... chas34 This message was edited by chas34 on 2-7-13 @ 7:03 AM
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| TomO | -- 02-07-2013 @ 8:05 AM |
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If you are concerned about using the Fel-Pro gaskets, check with John Scoble. He made the heads, so he may have a recommendation. Tom
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| JM | -- 02-08-2013 @ 3:22 AM |
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I would suggest using composite material head gaskets made by the "Best" Gasket Co. I used their complete gasket set on the last engine I built. Very nice quality. JM
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| MG | -- 02-13-2013 @ 2:53 PM |
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Just an update here for any of you who will be installing new head gaskets using the FelPro steel clad gaskets under aluminum heads. I did use the FelPro steel clad head gaskets and did not treat them with any type of sealer or spray - I put them on as they came from the box. I torqued the heads down to specs (40 lbs) and fired the engine up. I had leakage from 8 or so studs and became nervous so I poured in one container of 'Bar's Leaks' Stop Leak Concentrate, took it for a drive and then let the engine cool down overnight. I re-torqued the heads the next morning and fired it up. There was still some leakage but this time only around 4 of the studs. I drove the car home (about 40 miles) and let it sit overnight. I re-torqued the heads again fired it up and took it for a drive (5 miles or so). When I returned home, I checked the heads for leakage and found no leaks. I'm pleased but I will continue to look for any leakage and re-torque the heads for the next month or so. It's just that I have a hard time trying to grasp how these steel clad head gaskets are able to effectively seal. Apparently, they do though. This message was edited by MG on 2-13-13 @ 2:55 PM
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| supereal | -- 02-13-2013 @ 5:00 PM |
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Coolant leakage around the studs is caused by failure to seal the block end of the studs. The head gasket is usually not the cause. Installing helicoil thread inserts requires care, particularly in very old cast iron. If the coils are not seated properly, it indicates poor preparation that allows the inserts to permit leakage. I'd continue to use Barr'sLeaks in the hope it will eventually seal the problem. It is likely the leaks will continue and the block will need replacement.
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| MG | -- 02-13-2013 @ 5:07 PM |
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No helicoils in this block......
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| supereal | -- 02-13-2013 @ 9:22 PM |
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Then the offending studs will have to be pulled and resealed. It is important that when putting studs into the block that they be turned in until no threads are visible. Clear the block threads with a tap designed for the task, not a common threading tap, which will enlarge the holes in the old cast iron. Be sure that the threads on the stud are well coated with sealer before inserting. We always use new studs in all rebuilds to be sure they will withstand proper and even tightening. Don't use washers under the head nuts on iron heads, or the torque readings will be affected. This message was edited by supereal on 2-14-13 @ 7:18 AM
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