| bwhitworth | -- 01-21-2013 @ 11:54 AM |
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I recently had the engine out of my 40 Ford for cleaning and painting of the whole car. While I had it out I replaced the motor mounts at the front of the engine and the mounts behind the transmission. When we put the motor back we tightened the antichatter bolts at the rear of the engine, one near the starter and the other on the drivers side. I have a sudder or chatter when I let the clutch out. I had the same problem before I took the engine out, I thought the new motor mounts wounld correct the problem, since the old mounts were in such bad shape. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do to elimiate the sudder? Thanks, Bob
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| kubes40 | -- 01-21-2013 @ 2:00 PM |
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Hey Bob, My initial inclination would be a worn and / or contaminated clutch and / or disc as well as a worn (not FLAT) or glazed flywheel. This message was edited by kubes40 on 1-21-13 @ 2:00 PM
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| supereal | -- 01-21-2013 @ 5:02 PM |
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Also, be sure your motor mounts, front and rear, are properly tensioned. The rear spring mount and shackles must be without slack. Anti chatter rods are useless, and were abandoned by Ford. Some shudder is almost always present in old Fords due to the antiquated drive line structure. Most of us eventually devise using the clutch and throttle to live with it.
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| deuce_roadster | -- 01-21-2013 @ 5:51 PM |
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If you take the flywheel and clutch cover out to be resurfaced or rebuilt, make sure your disk has enough "marselle" (spelling is guessed at). If you look at the edge of a disk there is a thin sheet of metal that the 2 clutch faces are rivited to that attaches to the hub. This piece is wavy and this is what I've been told is called marselle. I think it adds a tiny bit of cushion as the clutch engages. Some of us in our Regional Group have NOS clutch facing kits from Ford which has new rivits as well as the facing material. I believe they DO contain asbestos but every one I am aware of in use is smooth as silk. They only need to be rivited to a good hub. Some of the new fricton materials aren't as good as the old. (what else is new). Good clutch rebuilders can redo this marselle before they rivit new friction material on the disk. This info is in addition to the good advice already given.
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| carcrazy | -- 01-21-2013 @ 8:00 PM |
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One thing to check is the connection between the rear axle and the shock absorbers. Rear shock links worn to the point where they are loose can contribute to clutch chatter. The clutch will probably exhibit more chatter in reverse than in first gear if the rear shocks are the culprit.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 01-21-2013 @ 8:27 PM |
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does it do the shudder in reverse? or only going forward? I have the same problem only going forward, I "burned" the clutch surface by letting the clutch slip with the car wheel against a stop-it stopped shuddering but eventually the shudder came back-I believe oil got on the surface and caused the problem, I was told to degrease the clutch thru the inspection cover on trans with pyrene or a good degreaser, like brake cleaner and it worked for long time
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| supereal | -- 01-22-2013 @ 6:47 AM |
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There is little doubt that the substitution of "organic" material for asbestos in clutch and brakes reduced the operating efficiency. However, it was a life saving move. Years ago, we used compressed air to clean those areas, producing a cloud of dust. All of the brake mechanics at the Ford dealer where I worked eventually died from lung related diseases, mostly cancer. Now, we use a water bath to remove the dust, even though the riisk has been diminished. Much shudder results from the driveline movement that is amplified by the clutch linkage. Any movement, fore and aft, will result in shudder, in forward or reverse if the driveline has any slack.
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| TomO | -- 01-22-2013 @ 8:59 AM |
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Idle speed and technique can also cause clutch chatter. Idle speed should be below 600 RPM. Let the clutch pedal out slowly until it just starts to grab, then increase engine speed and let the pedal all the way out. In addition to everything mentioned above, check the release fingers for even contact with the throw-out bearing. Some of the rebuilt pressure plate were not properly set up and adjusted when rebuilt and the cover could have been warped by improper installation. Always block the fingers to relieve the pressure when installing and tightening the pressure plate. Tom
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| fla48 | -- 01-22-2013 @ 4:10 PM |
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Alan's cure for placing the car against a stop is right on. This is something we did back in the 50's, It works as long as there is not an oil leak that gets on the clutch. Techniques listed above is also important. However when the clutch is set up correctly. We never had a problem with clutch shudder when we were drag racing, which required a high RPM when we released the clutch.
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| supereal | -- 01-22-2013 @ 9:27 PM |
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That was the "poor man's clutch job". You will note that it is temporary. It results in glazing the disk and the flywheel. If you detect lots of oil dripping from the drain hole in the clutch housing, it is likely the rear main seal is worn out. Whenever replacing the clutch, it is best to have the flywheel resurfaced. At least deglaze it. We use a Scotchbrite wheel in an air drill. If the disk surface of the pressure plate has blue spots, it must also be replaced.
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