| 49FH8 | -- 01-20-2013 @ 7:26 AM |
|
What primer and frame paint is recommended for a points car? The frame is sand blasted and clean. POR 15 is not desired or needed since rust is gone. The Eastwood products do not seem favorable based on some reviews. I know it is semi-gloss black. Please provide recommendations for a quality paint. I want to specify the paint for the painter and not depend on is recommendation. Thx Steve
|
|
| supereal | -- 01-20-2013 @ 6:42 PM |
|
The Ford term for the frame is "chassis black" it was used before and during assembly, and varied in consistency considerably because it was constantly replenished by adding material as it was used. Mostly it is a black semi gloss quick drying paint. Even though you have blasted the frame, the pores of the metal still harbor rust. We use a good primer designed to cover rusted metal, before top coating. Eastwood does sell an acceptable product. We have had varying results with POR and don't use it much, and it is very expensive. In spite of careful preparation, it has tended to peel after time.
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-21-2013 @ 9:11 AM |
|
Ford did not have the advantage of the newer paints, so the product that he used did not hold up very well. The 32-48 used a gloss enamel and the later cars used a semi-gloss enamel. I would check with the Advisor for your year car to determine the correct gloss level used. Then I would use the best paint that I could afford. Have the frame primed with an epoxy primer and painted with any single stage semi-gloss black. I would use a urethane with a flatner additive. Bill Hirsch makes a good chassis black paint, but it is just an air cured enamel. The urethane with the hardener will look better for years. Tom
|
|
| 49FH8 | -- 01-23-2013 @ 3:13 AM |
|
Thanks Tom, I think the enamel will minimize paint thickness. I want to use the best paint available. The 35-36 book says black for the frame and some components and gloss block for others. I assumed black means semi-gloss. How do I find an advisor for a 36? It's my first restoration and trying to keep it as close as possible to original. I have taken great pains to remove frame bolts added by someone else and installing rivets as Henry Ford built it. Thanks again, Steve
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 01-23-2013 @ 7:27 AM |
|
Steve, check with Don Rogers in Missouri. Don helped put together the 35-36 book and I'm sure he can help you. He's listed in the club roster.
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-23-2013 @ 7:30 AM |
|
The V-8 Club has advisors that answer questions from Club members. The contact information is available in each V-8 Times. Enamel will not hold up as well as urethane and must be applied thicker than urethane. My chassis is painted with enaml and I must touch it up every year and it is starting to look like it has the measels. The epoxy primer will keep the rust away and the urethane paint is very chip resistant. Tom
|
|
| 49FH8 | -- 01-23-2013 @ 10:23 AM |
|
Oops, I thought urethane was an enamel. I did a little more research and it seems there is an acrylic urethane and a polyurethane. I have read that the polyurethane is about a #2 pencil hardness and softer than acrylic urethane which makes it more chip resistant and provides better adhesion. More resistant to harsh chemicals too. Is the softer polyurethane really the best? Thanks all for the info, Steve
|
|
| jal9846 | -- 01-23-2013 @ 11:47 AM |
|
I would recommend PPG DCC Concept Urethane. It is a single stage paint which has superior chemical resistance and will maintain it's gloss characteristics over time. We have used this for several years on many dearborn level restorations for both chassis parts, as well as topcoats. One nice thing is it can be sanded and buffed to give that lacquer type look. For chassis, I would use the DCC9300....just don't be suprised when you see the price tag. It's currently running around $300/gallon for just the paint itself!
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-24-2013 @ 8:21 AM |
|
I agree that the DCC Concept Urethane's are superior paints. They spray and level very nice and hold up very well. I did not recommend them because I did not know what system your painter is familiar with and you should use the system that he has the best Spencerian with. Tom
|
|
| supereal | -- 01-24-2013 @ 1:00 PM |
|
Whichever type of primer and paint you choose, be sure they are the same brand. Since Low VOC paints have become popular, not all kinds are compatible. Most pros now use low pressure/high volume systems that require specific formulation.
|
|
| Stroker | -- 01-24-2013 @ 5:01 PM |
|
Tom O: I'm curious; I'm familiar with Spencerian writing, but I've never heard the term applied to painting. As for frame painting after prep, I like to use epoxy chromate primer. You can topcoat this with just about anything, and it bonds to good, clean metal like glue. I have used this system on Bonneville racecars, which are subjected to the worst salt environment imaginable. It is a two-part system, so you don't want to mix up more than you will use, as it only has a few hours of "pot life".
|
|
| TomO | -- 01-25-2013 @ 7:59 AM |
|
Stroker, I was sabotaged by my spell checker. The word should be "experience". When I did my chassis, the Imron was just introduced along with many horror stories, so I used a safer enamel. If the current paints had been available with the readily available safety equipment, I would have used them. Both the epoxy and urethane paints require special handling and breathing precautions. Failure toe read the precautions and observe them can lead to serious health problems. Make sure that you have the proper equipment to spray these paints. Tom
|
|
| 49FH8 | -- 01-25-2013 @ 10:45 AM |
|
Jal9846, I will go with it. Not sure if I will have a Dearborn winner but certainly want to start with the best paint on the frame. Thx Steve
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=5632 |