| MG | -- 12-15-2012 @ 12:31 PM |
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The left rear radius rod on my '37 Sedan is bent upward. I can only suspect that at one time someone placed a floor jack under it and lifted the car. It doesn't seem to be causing any problems in how the car drives/handles, but it looks ugly. I plan to replace the rod next week and I'm curious to know how to do this safely. Can I do this safely with the car lifted up by it's frame (wheels hanging) so I can stand-up under the car to do the work? This message was edited by MG on 12-15-12 @ 12:42 PM
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| supereal | -- 12-15-2012 @ 1:32 PM |
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That job is best done by placing the frame on a set of sturdy stands, or on a hoist that raises the frame, if you must do it while standing. As I recall, the rear wheel, hub, and brake assembly must be removed to get access to the bolts, and the spring must be spread, as the perch is part of the radius rod itself, requiring the removal of the shackle, and the support of the axle. The radius rods for the '37 were used only during the years 37-40. Like many things Ford, radius rods tend to look alike, but are quite different. Any bend in a rod can alter the placing of the axle, resulting in a loss of correct tracking of the wheels.
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| Stroker | -- 12-15-2012 @ 3:03 PM |
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As Supereal stated; you will have to remove the drum, but you may be able to remove the nuts, and have a helper hold the square-headed bolts in place inside the lower part of the grease retaining cup without having to strip the brake "innards". These bolts are kept from rotating by a machined flange, and a little pressure from your helper holding them in place will keep them from turning. The 37 radius rods simply bolt through the lower two axle/backing plate locations, and do not include the spring hanger,(which is welded to the axle tube) so you shouldn't need a spring-spreader, nor do you need to remove the spring shackle. If it was me, I'd simply straighten the radius rod with a "porta-power", providing you can rig up a beam strong enough to pull against, or alternatively, a 1-1/2" thick plywood pad on the floorpan that is of sufficient size to not distort the floor.
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| MG | -- 12-17-2012 @ 1:49 PM |
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Well, I replaced the radius rod today and it was a piece of cake to do. I did not have to remove the drum or the brake "innards". It was just a matter of removing three cotter pins and 3 castle nuts. Fortunately, the square-headed bolts through the backing plate did not turn when I removed and replaced the castle nuts. The bent radius rod came right off as did the replacement rod go right back on with ease. I did not do the work standing up under the car. Rather, I placed all four wheels/tires on portable car service ramps - this, just to be safe. Thanks for the responses.......
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| Stroker | -- 12-17-2012 @ 5:11 PM |
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MG: I love it "when a plan comes together"! Those bolts are kinda held captive by the machined lip, plus the grease retaining cup PLUS prolly a few years of having never been disturbed. I'm never that lucky. You just have a "fine touch"...Good Show!
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