| Texas40 | -- 12-11-2012 @ 10:30 AM |
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Does anyone know if Ford published a torque spec for the rear axle hub nut and if so what is it? I know it wants to be "really tight" but I was wondering if there was a spec somewhere and I have had no luck locating same in the shop manuals I have. Thanks
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| Stroker | -- 12-11-2012 @ 12:41 PM |
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I've never seen a published spec. Most everyone says to make them as tight as you can....which is kind of an open-ended statement, since some people have 1-inch drive sockets, and 4-foot breaker bars. I believe that somewhere in the 200 foot lb range is sufficient. Not a bad idea to drive around a bit and then check again. And when you install the cotter key, tighten to the next available slot.
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| supereal | -- 12-11-2012 @ 12:46 PM |
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I have never seen an actual torque spec for the 3/4 floating rear end in any book or manual. We tighten them with a "breaker bar" socket wrench that has a piece of pipe as a handle extender, first being sure that the axle taper and the axle hole in the hub are as clean as we can make them. Carb cleaner is a good solvent for the job. Mark the end of the axle to show where the cotter pin hole is. This will be very helpful. With a new outer axle gasket in place under the washer, run the nut down, then tighten as much as possible. We even stand on the wrench. If the axle nut doesn't match the cotter hole, back the nut off just enought to clear it. This is where marking the axle helps. Retighten the axle nut after you have run the car at least a hundred miles. In over 60 years, I have never twisted off the end of the axle, or had a hub come loose. If the hub wobbles on the axle, use tapered shim to correct it. They are available as part number A-4235 from C&G, $1 each, then retighten as set out above.
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| Stroker | -- 12-11-2012 @ 1:10 PM |
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I had the unfortunate experience in 1956 of losing a rear wheel due to the lack of a cotter pin. This was right after re-lining the rear brakes. I left the cotter pin out with the thought that I'd drive the car a couple of days, and then re-tighten. That was a very poor decision that resulted in an intersection crash that I can vividly recall 56 years later.
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| JM | -- 12-12-2012 @ 8:26 AM |
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There was a spec given for this torque in a past copy of the v8 times. Here is a post on Fordbarn regarding this spec that you can check out. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81405&highlight=axle+nut+torque Found this spec on the old Flathead Ford '32 to '53 Techno Forum. Lot's of other great info there as well. The 'V8 Times', Sept/Oct 98 Issue, pages 46 and 48, quotes several Ford Service Letters and later corrections. The final direction on tightening axle nuts reads: "tighten nut 356074-S to 200 to 220 foot pounds; then continue tightening to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds." JM This message was edited by JM on 12-12-12 @ 9:10 AM
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| JM | -- 12-12-2012 @ 12:14 PM |
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Delete duplicate message This message was edited by JM on 12-12-12 @ 12:16 PM
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| supereal | -- 12-12-2012 @ 1:20 PM |
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Most torque wrenches don't go that high, anyway.
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| Stroker | -- 12-12-2012 @ 3:25 PM |
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Supereal: I'll bet Mike has a "100% offset adapter" in his Snap-On chest. I agree with your original premise though, and that is that most of us old geezers can only achieve 200 foot-pounds by standing on the breaker bar.
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| JM | -- 12-12-2012 @ 6:25 PM |
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Old geezer's can learn new tricks....if they have a mind to...:) JM
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| supereal | -- 12-12-2012 @ 7:55 PM |
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Actually, as we work on big trucks at our shop, we have a set of calibrated socket extensions that turn an air wrench into a torque wrench. They save a lot of time, and prevent over torquing with the big air wrench. I wish I could sell my geezer-hood for what it cost me! This message was edited by supereal on 12-12-12 @ 7:57 PM
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