| rogbell | -- 12-10-2012 @ 12:51 PM |
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Is there a source for wiring diagrams for a 1953 Victoria that is better than the one drawing in the service manual?
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| Big Red 51 | -- 12-11-2012 @ 5:30 AM |
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The most detailed and readable are those that come with the better wiring harnesses. I have seen some in color blown up and in a plastic cover. You can enlarge the shop manual diagrams and get a good picture of the detail. I did my '53 Vic last winter and used Tyree Harris' wires and excellent diagrams. Is there one harness you are redoing or the whole thing? Don
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| rogbell | -- 12-11-2012 @ 7:51 AM |
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Thanks for the input. I'm probably only going to do the chassis wiring as the rest looks pretty good. Where do I find the Tyree Harris wiring?
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| trjford8 | -- 12-11-2012 @ 8:10 AM |
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As someone who has rewired several cars I would not piecemeal a wiring job. Old wires have a certain amount of resistance due to corrosion(which you cannot see under the insulation) and the insulation has weakened over time. Unless those harnesses have been replaced at one time, the originals are almost 60 years old. Go the extra money and do it completely the first time. It will save you time and money down the road.
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| trjford8 | -- 12-11-2012 @ 8:10 AM |
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As someone who has rewired several cars I would not piecemeal a wiring job. Old wires have a certain amount of resistance due to corrosion(which you cannot see under the insulation) and the insulation has weakened over time. Unless those harnesses have been replaced at one time, the originals are almost 60 years old. Go the extra money and do it completely the first time. It will save you time and money down the road.
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| supereal | -- 12-13-2012 @ 9:30 AM |
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Very good advice, Tom. A resistance of one ohm will consume 6 volts at 6 amps. The old rubber insulation with a cloth cover is almost like running an uninsulated conductor. Any voids in the cover allow moisture to enter, causing oxidization of the wiring. Not only does this reduce conductivity, but is a primary cause of old car fires. Old Fords have almost no fuse protection, and dividing the circuits and installing fuses or breakers is a good move. At least, add a master battery cutoff switch as a safety provision. As for '53 wiring diagrams, most of the shop manuals in our collection show the individual components, rather than a comprehensive schematic. This is a product of the huge increase in complexity of the newer cars and trucks. Now, we are dealing with single conductors connected to frequency sensitive receptors, making diagnosis and repair vastly more difficult.
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| rogbell | -- 12-15-2012 @ 2:05 PM |
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Thanks for all the advice. However, I have another issue and need all the advice I can get. How is the chassis wiring routed? I don't have a lift and can only look under the car laying on the ground. I don't see any wiring harness running from the rear of the car to the dash wiring. Is it routed on top of the floorpan (under the carpet)? When the car was converted to 12v. the old wiring was used in the trunk and new wiring for the tail lights tied into it. Also, a new single wire was routed along the brake fluid line from the fuel sending unit to the gauge. The wiring under the dash is a combination of old and some new wires.
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| supereal | -- 12-15-2012 @ 8:13 PM |
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The front to back wiring is usually attached to one side of the chassis sides using a spring clamp that grips the channel and has a loop that holds the wiring. From your description, it appears someone did a "hatchet" job in the voltage conversion, making the installation of a new full harness a wise choice for efficiency and safety.
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