| spqr67 | -- 11-17-2012 @ 2:49 PM |
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I've juuust about had it with the valve retainer clips in my '50 flathead. I've got the weird crowbar tool and have doused them with lubricant, but still cant dislodge the clips. Anyone have any tips on getting these buggers out? Also, lost in my enthusiasm, I managed to bust 6 head bolts while taking off the heads. I've tried the welding nut trick with no luck. Any tips on the best way to tackle this? I'm about ready to admit defeat... Thanks Michael
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| Stroker | -- 11-17-2012 @ 4:18 PM |
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Michael; Give the solvent on the clips time to work. Make sure that the respective valve is fully closed, so you aren't fighting spring pressure. My favorite solvent is AeroKroil. As for the head bolts (capscrews), where did they break off? If they are flush with the top surface of your block, there are several methods. If they failed above the top surface, there are even more.
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| 51f1 | -- 11-17-2012 @ 4:40 PM |
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Wait until you try to get the valve assemblies out. If they've been in there a while, they're stuck. Richard
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| supereal | -- 11-17-2012 @ 9:05 PM |
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The holes in the forks almost always break out if the engine is old. We use a special tool with a knurled gripper on the end. If all else fails, pry the valve up and remove the head to remove all spring tension. That is easier than cutting the valve spring, which will also remove tension on the guide. As for broken studs, you best bet is to take the block to a good machine shop. Old cast iron is delicate, making it easy to ruin the block. If you try to drill and use an "easy out", don't break it off, as then removal gets very expensive.
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| supereal | -- 11-18-2012 @ 5:24 PM |
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Richard is right about getting the guides out. They can be tough, and usually at least one or two refuse to budge out the top. The common fix is to cut off the valve heads and drive them down and out. I'd consider using one piece guides, straight stem valves and adjustable lifters when you reassemble.
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