| oakhurst | -- 11-09-2012 @ 9:39 AM |
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When I was 15 I think I remember removing the brake drums on my Model A by tapping on the partially removed castle nut. Now, 55 years later, I own a 36 Phaeton still with the mechanicals and I need to look at the brakes. I recently bought the car at Barret Jackson in Costa Mesa, CA. I understand there is a "hub puller." Do I need this? Also my oil pressure and fuel gauges are not working. I did replace the gas sending unit and it is sending the right ohms out. Does anyone rebuild these? When we boiled out the tank, we found a 1942 quarter inside. THe tank was original and very clean. Did the silver quarter have anything to do with that? It is very black now. Haven't tried to clean it yet.
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| Pickup | -- 11-09-2012 @ 12:28 PM |
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You must use a wheel puller to remove the rear drums. Sure e all got lucky 55 years ago, but the parts are a lot harder to come by today. Save yourself a lot of grief and buy a good hub puller, preferably one that attaches to the groove in the hub.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 11-09-2012 @ 12:38 PM |
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If you are a member of a local EFV8 Club ask if they have one to loan. If the rear hubs were installed properly you definitely need a puller. By the way, where in general are you located? If someone lived close and had one they would loan you they could send you an email (opps, your email is disabled). Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 11-9-12 @ 12:51 PM
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| oakhurst | -- 11-09-2012 @ 1:20 PM |
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I did not mean to omit my email. This is my first posting. We are in central California (Oakhurst) and have contacted Reuben at the local chapter.
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| supereal | -- 11-09-2012 @ 3:43 PM |
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There is a general agreement among old Ford enthusiasts that the Winfield Tool Works version of the original KRW is the best rear hub puller made. I've had one for many years. They are unfailiingly successful in removing the most stubborn hubs. They may seem to be expensive, but have you priced axles and brake drums? Some local clubs have bought them to spread the cost. Yes, we used to bang the end of axles, but then the salvage yards were full of cheap axles.
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| TomO | -- 11-10-2012 @ 7:33 AM |
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I hope that you held onto your original sending unit for the gas tank as the reproductions do not work as good as the originals. To test the gauges touch the wire going to the sending unit to a ground such as the body or motor. The gauge needle should move towards the highest reading. If it does not, check for voltage at the gauge or read it at the wire end with a voltmeter. Baxter Ford Parts in KS sells both NOS and reconditioned gauges. You need to coat your gas tank with a sealer such as the one sold by Bill Hirsch or it will rust. Make sure that whatever sealer you use is resistant to alcohol in the gas. I would not use any puller except the reproduction or original KRW tool. If you try to use a puller that connects to the wheel studs, you may damage the drum and the 36 drums are hard to come by. Tom
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| oakhurst | -- 11-10-2012 @ 8:48 AM |
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I will use the hub puller. Thanks. The gauge info is helpful too. Re the gas tank, it is still pristine. Why would I put in a liner? Even pre ethanol I have had problems with liners in the past.
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| Henryat1140 | -- 11-12-2012 @ 4:47 AM |
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The sealer of choice is REDKOTE, and you can get a version that protects against ethanol damage. After you get the drums off and complete whatever work you are going to do on the brakes, you will re-install the drums, but there are tips and techniques on how to do this. You can search here and on Fordbarn.com for these. In particular, do not lubricate the surface of the axle where the drum mounts. You will need to get the axle nut very tight, and there are posts on both sites about how to get them tight enough. One last tip: take a close look at the rubber fuel hose connecting the fuel line to the fuel pump. This is an item that needs to be replaced periodically and it can cause some weird troubleshooting symptoms. Good luck and write back if you need further help.
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| TomO | -- 11-12-2012 @ 7:35 AM |
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The Ethanol in the gas attracts water. The combination attacks steel and rust forms. A properly prepared tank treated with a good sealer will last many years without forming rust. Without a sealer, you may get few years before the rust becomes a problem and clogs up your carburetor. I boiled out my tank and coated it in 1977 and had no problems until 2010 when the coating that was not alcohol resistant began to fail. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-12-2012 @ 10:01 AM |
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If your gas tank isn't leaking, you can skip the interior coating. If it is seeping, its time for a new one.
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| TomO | -- 11-13-2012 @ 7:32 AM |
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Supereal, I have to disagree with you on this. A 75 year old tank is very unlikely to have any protective coating left. The new gas is very corrosive, I have seen rust develop in just a few weeks on a tank that was boiled out. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-13-2012 @ 1:46 PM |
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I can't disagree with you, Tom, but if the "terne" coating of the tank (tin and lead) is pitted, it will eventually leak, regardless of the coating. I may have done it wrong, but "slushing" the tank almost always resulted in eventual replacement, anyway. As stainless steel tanks are expensive, I went to the plastic version which, I know, will never rust. If the current push for E-15 (15%) alcohol succeeds, everyone will need a plastic tank.
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| MG | -- 11-14-2012 @ 10:42 AM |
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Good related article. See: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/11/14/tech-101-ethanol-in-gasoline-and-its-effects-on-collector-cars/?refer=news
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