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As you probably have discovered, most of the lubes originally prescribed have become obsolete. There are lots of viewpoints on this subject, but I'll offer mine. All motor oils should be the detergent type, even if you don't have a filter. This keeps particles in suspension where they can be drained, lessening the formation of sludge. Those of us in warmer climates, or who drive mostly in the summer months, use a multi-viscosity oil. I prefer 20W-50, as it provides some help in boosting low oil pressure in a hot engine. For chassis lube, including the u-joint and drive shaft, we use Mystik JT-6. It is a sticky, waterproof, all purpose product. Wheel bearings, front and rear, require a fibrous grease. Sta-Lube heavy duty drum brake grease is best. Transmission and rear end oil is usually a good grade of 80-90, but if you can find 140, it will reduce leakage, a common Ford problem. We often hear about synthetic oils being desirable. While they are excellent in modern vehicles, extending drain intervals for 5-10 thousand miles, the same quality that makes them appropriate for new cars works against them in old ones, as they tend to leak around the old style lip and rope seals. For the extra price, you can make several oil changes with brand name oil. ZDDP additives are necessary only for the breakin period following a rebuild. For filling the steering gear, many use a thick substance, such as STP. The proximity to the exhaust manifold makes this a problem area, tending to cook most oils. Overall, today's oils and greases are light years ahead of the original formulas, so it is hard to go wrong. The important factor is frequent checks of the levels of all the parts of the vehicle, as leakage is normal. You can tell that by the usual sheets of cardboard protecting the garage floor!
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