Topic: 37-38 ford windshield glass


william    -- 09-25-2012 @ 10:10 AM
  Has V8 times done any articles on replacing the window glass in a 37-39 ford windshield ? If so what issue was it in ? I have only been with the club a short time , so I don't have very many issues .I have an older Gent that might have ? If anybody has any good ideas all would be appreiated .

Thank You
Bill


supereal    -- 09-25-2012 @ 11:35 AM
  Check for an appropriate article in the index on page 41 of your Club roster. Some of us old timers may have the issue cited. On page 39 is a list of Club books for specific years. You may also find info on your car there. Replacing windshield glass is always tricky. First, the screws holding the frame together are probably rusted, resisting removal. They are very small, with a unique thread, so it is important not to strip them or break them off. The replacement glass must have the identical thickness. Much modern glass is too thick, and will not fit the frame and packing. It is a good idea to order replacement glass and packing from a specialist. You will find one on page 96 of your V8 TIMES for July/August. If you plan to replate or paint the frame, do it before attempting to install the glass.Beware of modern auto glass shops. The last one we used ruined a very good frame by trying to force it together. Unless the shop is experienced in old cars, you are probably better trying it yourself.


william    -- 09-25-2012 @ 4:22 PM
  Thank You for your info . I have looked in the club roster ,nothing for windshields . I think your right ,take my time and do it myself .

Best Regards
Bill



kubes40    -- 09-25-2012 @ 6:37 PM
  My experience has been very good with a local glass shop. however, they are experienced with old cars like our Fords. As Super advised, that is imperative.
Modern glass is normally thinner than what Ford used back then - about .015" - .022" thinner. The variation can be made up with the glass setting tape which comes in many thicknesses.
To take your windshield apart you must first remove the screws that hold the frame together at each side. That is probably (usually) the toughest part of the entire process.
Once the screws are out I utilize a block of hardwood and a 1# hammer to dislodge the lower half of the frame from the glass. Work evenly from the inside to avoid bending the frame. You will rapidly acquire a feel for how much force is needed. I have yet to damage a frame nor break a piece of glass using this method. It actually works rather well.
Once the frame is loose, glass has been removed, the channel must be cleaned thoroughly.
If you have an unbroken piece you can use this for a pattern. Any even half way decent glass shop can cut this for you. The savings vs. a "specialized" place are astronomical. Be certain to specify clear (no logo) glass.
Installing the new glass is a bit of a challenge but one that anyone with decent mechanical ability can handle. The only word of caution is to not attempt to use too thick of glass setting tape. That's a very common mistake. If you find the tape you have is "too thin" you can add a piece of friction tape to make up the slight difference.





supereal    -- 09-26-2012 @ 6:58 AM
  Mike has given you the straight info. To determine the correct setting tape, put the glass in the frame, hold it to one side and very carefully measure the gap, and divide by two.. Setting tape comes in several thicknesses. The fit must be snug by not tight. We buy ours from C&G. I can't find correct thickness glass around here, so we order it and have the correct "bugs" put on. I agree it is pricey, but glass is one of the most visible parts of any car.



TomO    -- 09-26-2012 @ 7:40 AM
  Carlton Glass has a product that you can use to reproduce the glass "bugs". They are not quite as sharp as the sand blasted "bugs" but are very good reproductions. The process is easily learned and gives very good results.

http://www.fordscript.com/carleton_glass/index.html

Tom


william    -- 09-26-2012 @ 10:12 AM
  I want to thank each and everyone of you on your input .I think I have it figured out now ? I had forgot about C&G I may give them a call . I was reading about the fellow with his 41 ford window seals , and buying Dennis Carpenters seals ?This car I'm working on and just bought ,was leaking bad on both sides of the windshield down in front of the seats to the floor ? At first I thought the windshield was not seating against the car body at top ? I pulled it in ( still leaked ) ? I took the windshield out ( to check it better ) Water was getting in at the top of frame ? around seal .I bought a new seal ( it was a Dennis Carpenter one ) I did my best to put it on and not stretch it at all . It would not (and will not)stay down in the grove in the centers ? I'm making sure I have the little rolled lip to go to car body for added seal on outside of frame . As that is what the instructions say to do .Has enyone else had this fun yet and what can one do about it ? #1 Put some black weather stripping & trim glue in the grove to help hold it in place and keep water out of grove ?

Bill


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