| rradar | -- 09-10-2012 @ 4:13 PM |
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Same old problem with my 40. I drove it just a couple months ago and had no problem starting it. However, during the summer I kept the car covered with tarp, outside during the hottest 105 degree temperatures. Now it will not start. There is fire to the coil but none to plugs. Can a condenser be the problem? I replaced the coil with a used one but no luck. Is there way to check out the condenser?? Thanks, rradar
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| TomO | -- 09-11-2012 @ 9:00 AM |
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I don't know what you mean by "there is fire to the coil, but not to the plugs" You may have corrosion on the points causing resistance bad coil or bad condenser. I would start by cleaning the contacts in the distributor by spraying some tuner cleaner on them and wiping the contact surfaces with a lint free cloth or a piece of poster-board. You can easily substitute a new condenser from a modern car to get your car started. If you have the original type coil and do not know anyone that has a coil tester, either find a friend that will let you test the coil on his car or send it off to Jake Fleming or Skip. Some of the Sun Machines had a coil tester built in. If you have the adapter for a modern round coil, buy a new one at NAPA. A used coil can work one day and not the next. Tom
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| alanwoodieman | -- 09-11-2012 @ 11:39 AM |
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the points have a slight corrosion or "scum" on them from sitting and getting damp-lots of problems like this in the humid areas of the country-do like TomO says-pull a piece of paperboard across the points to clean them in some cases a fine emerypaper or sandpaper
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| supereal | -- 09-11-2012 @ 2:19 PM |
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Clean points with a point file or paper, never sandpaper or emery. Those will leave deposits on the surface of the points that will cause rapid failure. Before you tackle the distributor, check the voltage at the coil while cranking. If it is below three volts, it is too weak to generate an adequate spark. It can be caused by a worn ignition switch, a bad terminal at the resistor, a weak battery, or a poor connection in the system. This message was edited by supereal on 9-12-12 @ 9:34 AM
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| rradar | -- 10-01-2012 @ 4:45 PM |
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Was in hospital for surgery and just today could turn my attention to the starting/coil/condenser problem on my 40. Today, we tried to check out some possibilities that had been suggested as trouble spots that could be causing my problem. Replaced the coil with a correct one out of club member's 40 but no luck, motor wouldn't start. We checked for low voltage at the coil terminal and it registered about 3 volts. Also, we discovered that the battery had been installed with terminals reversed. (Neg to ground and Pos to starter switch. Tried reversing the cables but nothing happened except a few clicks from the Voltage Regulator. So, it looks like I'll have to try to find some weak spot in the ignition cable that is preventing a better voltage at the coil terminal. We did try a jumper wire from the battery direct to coil but it did not help. This car has been unused for so long that there is probably resistance built up somewhere in the circuitry. Thanks for input that you offered. Radar
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| supereal | -- 10-01-2012 @ 6:47 PM |
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Almost without exception,, old Ford coils are weak or dead. This is due to the disintegration of the internal insulation. Shorts between primary windings cause it to be weak, if it works at all. Shorts to the secondary kill it. If the case is intact, it can be rebuilt. Repro coils are available.
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| trjford8 | -- 10-02-2012 @ 5:40 PM |
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I suspect you have a bad battery.Did you check the coil voltage while cranking over the motor? If the battery is weak the starter uses up all the voltage and you don't get enough to the coil.
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| TomO | -- 10-03-2012 @ 9:07 AM |
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3+ volts at the coil with the points closed is pretty normal. The voltage drop is coming from the ignition resistor. If you did not have spark with a known good coil and condenser, your points may have dirt, oil or other contaminants on them. Clean them with contact cleaner and a piece of cardboard or a flex stone burnishing blade. Check the points by connecting your voltmeter to the input of the coil and tapping the starter with the ignition on. The voltage should go from the 3+ Volts to battery voltage as the points open. Your battery must be installed correctly and you will have to polarize the generator by removing the wire from the FIELD terminal of the regulator and touching it to the BAT terminal for a second. If you tried to start it with your friend's coil when the battery was reversed, that could also be your problem. Tom
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| rradar | -- 10-12-2012 @ 2:02 PM |
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UPDATE; After some trial and error finally decided to swap out a coil and condenser off another 40 that was running and handy. Also, did reverse battery terminals and cleaned voltage regular terminals. Polarized generator per suggestion and gave ignition switch some quick flips up and down. Finally, with a prayer for divine help I cranked the flathead over and it started!! Really made my day!! Thanks to all for helpful input. Radar
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