| DEAN333 | -- 09-06-2012 @ 2:09 PM |
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Would someone please identify this engine I am interested in buying? TIM CARLIG
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| 40guy | -- 09-06-2012 @ 2:27 PM |
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1939. Lets see how close I am.
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| mdurhan | -- 09-06-2012 @ 2:52 PM |
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1936. Perhaps even late '35. Mike The 21st Century American Dream: A disibility check.
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| mdurhan | -- 09-06-2012 @ 2:53 PM |
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1936. Perhaps even late '35. Mike The 21st Century American Dream: A disibility check.
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| supereal | -- 09-06-2012 @ 5:18 PM |
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The proof won't be known until the oil pan is removed to determine if if has babbit or insert bearings. 1935 to 1936 and on into '37, were years of big changes at Ford. I wouldn't consider buying it until you know which bearings it has, and in what condition. Otherwise, you risk buying a worthless pile of iron.
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| drkbp | -- 09-06-2012 @ 8:22 PM |
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Tim, Sort of depends what year car you need it for. Shows 21 stud but we can't see if there are block-off plates on the front of the block. No water pump block off plates and it is '36 or earlier. Most of the late '36 engines I have seen with inserts for mains will have LB stamped up on the front left deck of the block. The intake manifold should not cover (as I recall) the LB letters that are stamped into the deck. LB is very desired because of the inserts. I have one in the shop as a spare for my '35 Cabriolet. My LB looks like a lB but that's what it is. If you have a '32 - '36 with no engine, it is very well worth looking at if you want the early block that looks correct. It's like any other engine that could be cracked or ruined inside. You don't know. If I saw no jacket cracks or repairs in the block and it appeared to not have had water down in it (sort of hard to tell), I would throw an offer at it right now. I don't need one and I would give 300 for it to see if it was a good one. Early 21 stud engines are not easy to find. It's like a guy asked "What is the difference between a 21 stud and a 24 stud engine?" The other fellow says "Well, three less studs on each bank and about $ 3,000 dollars more money." All that being said, it would have to be rebuilt to be worth the bucks and I wouldn't buy it for a '39 car. Ken in Texas
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-06-2012 @ 10:32 PM |
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I'm not so sure any core block is worth $300 before the heads are off for inspection, but if you have a good feeling about it, carefully lift it by the attached chain and get it off that dangerous engine stand before the bell housing breaks and it falls on your foot. A much safer engine stand for an early flathead engine mounts to the side at the exhaust ports, or one that mounts fore and aft. If I needed it, I'd pull the heads, inspect for visible cracks and water damage, and offer $200. In my opinion, $300 is too much for a core that will require another $300 just to discover if it's good enough to rebuild. Alan This message was edited by ford38v8 on 9-7-12 @ 12:00 AM
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-07-2012 @ 8:56 AM |
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The owner says there is a "U' and a "3" stamped near the intake at the left rear and a "6", "x" and "A" stamped near the intake at the right rear. Couldn't I just put a jack stand under the front of the engine for more support on that engine stand? TIM CARLIG
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-07-2012 @ 9:12 AM |
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The "U" and the "3" could very well be mistaken for a "LB". TIM CARLIG
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-07-2012 @ 2:06 PM |
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Tim, a jack stand could work, but remember, the bell housing is relatively thin and is under stress bearing the entire weight of the engine. If the engine stand shifted while removing the heads, the jackstand could slip and you've got scr*p metal and maybe a broken foot. Alan
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| DEAN333 | -- 09-12-2012 @ 7:29 PM |
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Looks like the intake manifold has vertical flutes on either side of the carburetor mount so it must be a '35? TIM CARLIG
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