Topic: 36 97 Stromberg gas leak


DEAN333    -- 08-23-2012 @ 2:30 PM
  Gas is leaking thru the Accelerator pump hole after carb rebuild....I think I curled the leather edge of the pump so I ordered a new pump. I wanted to run this by the brain trust to get other opinions. I've had the pump out 3 times trying to gently re-insert it but believe the damage is already done.

TIM CARLIG


40 Coupe    -- 08-24-2012 @ 4:58 AM
  Even with the curled pump, do you see a stream of fuel through the discharge nozzles when the pump is depressed? If not make sure the path of the fuel through the nozzles is open. there should be a felt washer on the accelerator pump shaft just under the hole in the die cast top, to prevent dirt from entering the hole. Make sure the float level is correct. The inside bore for the pump is clean and smooth, so the pump does not hang up and get damaged. You can take fine sandpaper or scotch bright to clean the bore.Unless the new leather pump is riped it should be OK if installed properly.


supereal    -- 08-24-2012 @ 8:54 AM
  Leakage of old carbs is often due to warped diecast parts and/or worn areas, such as the accelerator pump bore. The 97 was plagued with leakage, even when new, leading the way to the 94. Summit Racing is offering a new Stromberg 97 with extra material in the airhorn casting to reduce leakage around the fuel bowl. They have a non-stick inlet valve, stainless steel levers and linkange, as well as reinforced nitrile gaskets for alcohol fuels. They aren't cheap, but for those wishing to replace a wornout carb, they would be an answer.


DEAN333    -- 08-24-2012 @ 1:24 PM
  When I reinstalled the jets, they had slotted heads-no spewcial wrench needed, I stopped when they seated. Are the holes in the jets supposed to face forward, to the side or does it matter?

TIM CARLIG


40 Coupe    -- 08-25-2012 @ 6:22 AM
  The 97 as Ford used on the 36, has one Power Valve with a slotted head (with a spring loaded metal pin in the center of the slot) it is under the accelerator pump. It has a gasket and there are four small holes on it's sides, their orientation is not important. It also has two main jets, Original style are installed and removed with a special wrench. They are located under the two (of three) outside large screws near the bottom of the main body of the 97. The 94 style of carb used much later (38-40's) has original style main jets that are installed with a screwdriver. The jets for the 94 can not be used on the 97. Both the 94 and the 97 main jets have one hole through the center end to end. Under the 97 main jets are emulsion tubes. During a rebuild both of the emulsion tubes MUST be removed to be cleaned and inspected for damage. If you go to the Stromberg web site you can see photos and descriptions of all the 97 internal parts as well as the special wrench.


DEAN333    -- 08-25-2012 @ 7:59 AM
  I don't know how I missed it but when I had the carb disassembled I found nothing that needed a special wrench [though I bought one when I ordered the kit]. I only saw the two jets with holes running through with slotted heads. I will disassemble again when the new pump gets here.

TIM CARLIG


40 Coupe    -- 08-26-2012 @ 6:04 AM
  A 94 style Carb can be run on a 36 engine, but their internal parts are not interchangeable. I would suggest you confirm your Carb type. Is there an embossed 97 on the side of the Carb? Does the Carb also have the numbers 67 embossed in the die cast body? Could you post a photo of the Carb? or post some of the numbers that are embossed in the Carb body and base?


DEAN333    -- 08-26-2012 @ 10:56 AM
  Her is pic 1 0f 4

TIM CARLIG


DEAN333    -- 08-26-2012 @ 10:57 AM
  Pic 2 04 4...

TIM CARLIG


DEAN333    -- 08-26-2012 @ 10:59 AM
  Pic 3 of 4, EE-1 is stamped into body.

TIM CARLIG


DEAN333    -- 08-26-2012 @ 11:00 AM
  Last of 4 pics.

TIM CARLIG


40 Coupe    -- 08-26-2012 @ 12:57 PM
  Indeed it is a Stromberg 97 with the correct D shaped EE-1 base and linkage. I guess your not looking to do a restoration at this point just get the car going well enough to drive, your Carb should work fine. The Carb is not exactly the original 1936 type 97, if it were, the 97 would be much smaller and the castings would include 67 embossed in even smaller numbers. Just under the float bowl, under the two extreme outside large plugs, are the main jets (brass). I will try to post a photo of jets and tool. When you remove the jets, there are brass emulsion tubes under the jets. The tubes can be taped with a 6-32 tap about 6 turns deep then insert a long 6-32 screw into the new threads and use a nut and flat washer on the outside of the long screw tighten the nut to extract the emulsion tubes pulling them out. The tubes can be cleaned, inspect all the small holes on the sides of the tubes especially the end holes have to be clean, round and not flattened out. Tightening the main jets too much will damage the tube holes. Clean and blow out all air passages in the die cast main body. To reassemble use a light oil on the jet threads and the emulsion tube ends so they will install with ease. The cast iron EE-1 base is usually a problem area. Each idle passage has two small holes one above and one below the throttle plate, they have to be open without restriction so be sure to blow this area out well. Do not increase the size of the holes! The original size of the main jets is 45 they should be stamped so, the power valve is 65 and it is usually stamped also. Good luck on the rebuild.


40 Coupe    -- 08-26-2012 @ 1:04 PM
  Main jet in front of tool and power valve below.


40 Coupe    -- 08-26-2012 @ 1:08 PM
  page two of document


DEAN333    -- 08-26-2012 @ 2:21 PM
  Thanks 40Coupe...I do want it correct but need it running now too! Where do you recommend I get the correct carb?

TIM CARLIG


40 Coupe    -- 08-27-2012 @ 4:47 AM
  From your photos it appears you have several parts on your car that are not quite right for the 36. Thats fine, so that you can enjoy your car, NOW, I would suggest you use the Carb you have and then you can look for a 36 style Ford Stromberg. Contact Max Musgrove (UT) at the Stromberg web site to see if he has one. Max is the Stromberg guru and can rebuild older Strombergs if that is the way you wish to go. Charlie Schwindler (NY) also has rebuilt carbs and he does a excellent job rebuilding. There are a lot of pit falls in buying old carbs (you will not find an original 36 Stromberg new ready to run). Are all the parts matching, stripped threads, water corrosion and stuck parts, leaking gasket surfaces and warping. In a lot of ways buying a old style 97 rebuilt makes a lot of sense but working on them yourself can be satisfying, rewarding and a learning experience. The 35-36 V8 Club restoration book is an excellent source of information. I just cracked mine open and was reminded that very early 36 production continued to use the 1935 Stromberg 48 for a couple of months in very late 35 so dating your cars production will become important here and the restoration book will assist.


ken ct.    -- 08-30-2012 @ 10:32 AM
  Same guy you got the fuel pump from LOL. ken ct.


DEAN333    -- 09-01-2012 @ 7:15 PM
  Ok, emulsion tubes came out as instructed. Cleaned tubes and jets...everything went back together smoothly. Installed the tubes with the holes facing up as per the Stromberg site tech sheet. Ran real nice for about 3 minutes and the gas started oozing from the accelerator pump hole. Took the top off and lowered the float twice. It seems as though I had it to spec per the gauge that came with the carb kit the first time I did it. How low should I go with the float and is that the cause of the gas oozing from the pump hole??

TIM CARLIG


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