| woodwagon47 | -- 12-26-2009 @ 6:02 PM |
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I have a 47 V8 that developed a poping noise. Engine was rebuilt about 6 years ago. I pulled the motor and removed the heads and intake. I figured I would find burnt valves bad seats etc. I found nothing except one bad guide, It does not have mushroom valves in it, It has two types of valves in it, the one that uses a one piece guide and some that use a split guide. All the guides are good except one. I originally pulled the motor because number 5 and 8 only had 20lbs compresssion. I sent the heads out to be trued up. This motor ran fine till this year. I have cleaned up most of the valves and relaped them in. I still have a couple more cylinders to do. I need a better spring compresor too get 1-2-3 out. Anyone got any ideas on what I am doing right or wrong? I also had one of the split valve keepers go down a oil galley hole. I am hoping a small magnet might retrieve it. The magnet I had was to big.
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| oldford2 | -- 12-27-2009 @ 4:39 AM |
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You should not need a spring compressor to remove your valves. Use a pickle ford and pry down on the spring and remove the horseshoe clip. Then, if the guide is not stuck in too bad you should use the fork to pry up and remove the whole valve assembly. If the guide is really stuck hard, then you will have to remove the keepers and valve so you can work from the top and drive down the guide a bit to free it up. John
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| supereal | -- 12-28-2009 @ 8:06 AM |
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Today, it isn't hard to find engines with different valves and guides, as many have taken a shortcut if a valve needed replacement. A problem can arise with non-mushroom type valves and original lifters. We use only straight stem valves, one piece guides, and adjustable lifters. Mixed valves usually indicate a former problem, and most of the valves were not touched. Those may present removal problems. You don't need a spring compressor to remove the valve/spring assembly, but the guide may well be really stuck. As to the keeper that went down the oil hole, if you can't get it out intact, the engine will have to come out. That is why it isn't a good idea to try to disassemble a valve until it is out of the block. At our shop, we cover all engine openings as we open and close engines. It is too easy to have something drop into the engine. I know that only too well. Be sure to replace all valve springs. If you are not using adjustable lifters, grinding the stems for clearance is going to be a problem unless you have assess to a valve grinder, even lapping valves and seats will change the clearance.
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| woodwagon47 | -- 12-29-2009 @ 6:08 PM |
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The engine has adjustable lifters, you think we should change all the springs. The engine is out of the car. What are the chances of getting the split keeper out without pulling the pan? There seems to be a pan or something at the bottom of that galley hole. I know about covering up holes as I have a Model t but i just did not pay any attention to it. Only half of the keeper went down the galley hole.
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| woodwagon47 | -- 12-29-2009 @ 6:11 PM |
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What about getting the keeper out, only half fell in the hole, do you think I will have to pull the pan or do you think i might be able to get it with a magnet. The engine is out of the car. What about changing the springs?
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| supereal | -- 12-30-2009 @ 6:59 AM |
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We always install new springs when we have the engine apart for a couple of reasons. One, the springs in a lightly or seldom used car can take a "set" from being compressed for long periods. That is why we turn the engines over occasionally during storage. Two, valve springs are coated to reduce rust, etc. If the coating is perforated or worn, engine acids will attack the springs, often resulting in a broken spring. Good springs are about a buck and a half, much cheaper than tearing down an engine to replace a bad spring. As to the missing keeper, it is imperative that you retrieve it. My luck in getting things out with a magnet isn't good, but you may be luckier. I suspect that it is in the cam chamber, and you may find it when you remove the lifters. (Be sure to get each lifter back in the place from whence it came). If not, upend the engine and shake it. We always place engines on a rotating stand, which makes access easier. If you use a stand, bolt it to the exhaust manifold holes, not the clutch housing.
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