| willys36 | -- 08-16-2012 @ 9:08 AM |
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I am a novice when it comes to early Fords. I am building a project that needs two front hubs that will be exposed and chromed so they need to be correct. here is a picture of the hubs I need. I need another one to go with this one. Does anyone know what it came off of and does anyone have one they can spare?
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| MG | -- 08-16-2012 @ 10:11 AM |
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What is the part number stamped on that piece???
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| willys36 | -- 08-16-2012 @ 2:55 PM |
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I'll check when I get home. I never thought there would be so much variation in wheel hubs!!
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| willys36 | -- 08-17-2012 @ 6:50 AM |
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The number on the hub is 01A110661. As usual pretty tough to make out casting numbers on cast iron.
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| supereal | -- 08-17-2012 @ 9:19 AM |
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That is not a valid hub part number. O1A would indicate years 41-48. The number you have given would be in the starter motor category. You are right about trying to decipher numbers on old cast iron. Trying to plate old, rough cast iron is very difficult, if possible at all.
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| Old Henry | -- 08-17-2012 @ 7:27 PM |
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The parts book doesn't show any hubs with the 1106 number, only 1105. But, here's a hub with numbers similar to yours but different appearance so there must be 1106's: http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-41-42-FORD-MERCURY-front-hub-Flathead-1940-1941-1942-SCTA-32-Ratrod-Brake-/150876671782?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2320f34f26&vxp=mtr If you can't find one to match yours you could get a couple of these new ones to put on: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Early-Ford-Front-Brake-Hub-w-Dust-Cap-1940-Design-/130737655082?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e70924d2a&vxp=mtr I've attached the parts book listing of hub numbers in case it will help. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 8-17-12 @ 10:48 PM
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| willys36 | -- 08-18-2012 @ 11:43 AM |
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Here is a shot of the number. As I read it 01A1106-C1 Anyway, someone MUST have one of these with a trashed brake drum that they want to sell me!!!!!! Or if there are so many variations that it is impossible to match this one, some one MUST have a set of two with trashed brake drums they want to sell me!!!!! They must, they must I tell you!!!!!!! I definitely don't want to use a reproduction hub. Your table lists the items as 'Brake Drum and Hub Assemblies' which likely have a different stocking number than the hub alone? This message was edited by willys36 on 8-18-12 @ 11:58 AM
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| willys36 | -- 08-18-2012 @ 11:54 AM |
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And if it means anything there is another number to the left of the long one that appears to be triangle 9 NS
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| Old Henry | -- 08-18-2012 @ 12:25 PM |
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Do a search on ebay for it and if nothing comes up save the search and you'll get an email as soon as one is listed. I've got a lot of rare stuff that way. Waited months sometimes until someone listed what I was looking for. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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| Stroker | -- 08-18-2012 @ 4:06 PM |
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Willys: It would help a great deal if you revealed a little more about your project. Your sample hub is a 5-on-5-1/2" standard Ford hub. This lug bolt pattern with the same bearing bore was used from 1928-1935,and again from 1940-1948 or a total of 15 years. I'd guess your sample is of 1940 vintage, but could be much later. I have a pair of hubs machined out of 6061-T6 Aluminum that are dimensionally correct. These are not for sale, and I am only mentioning them due to the fact that this combination of bearing size and bolt pattern has been used for over seventy five years as a standard front hub in competition (oval track, dirt track racing, drag racing, land speed racing, ect.. Therefore to this old-timer, I don't see the compelling need of finding something of similar part number, given the long production of stock Ford pieces, and the 3/4 century use of similarly-dimensioned aftermarket racing parts. Functionally, the're all the same!
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| willys36 | -- 08-18-2012 @ 4:40 PM |
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Already have an ebaY search logged in! I am a power user and I have too gotten a lot of rare stuff being patient. I also realize the 5X5 Ford hub is standard for decades. However since I am reproducing a specific car, I have to match the hubs as closely as possible. That's why I can't use the red hubs I have (1/2" doo small OD), reproduction hubs etc. I need those iron '40 hubs for authenticity. Here is the car I am reproducing. As you can see, the hubs play a starring role. This message was edited by willys36 on 8-18-12 @ 4:41 PM
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| Stroker | -- 08-18-2012 @ 4:56 PM |
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willys36: Rat Fink would be proud of you!
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| willys36 | -- 08-18-2012 @ 6:54 PM |
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I only hope Rat Fink would approve! Here is a better picture
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| Stroker | -- 08-19-2012 @ 7:45 AM |
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Have you seen Dave Shuten's replica of the Mysterion?
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| Old Henry | -- 08-19-2012 @ 8:35 AM |
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Here's Dave's replica: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/featuredvehicles/0601rc_ed_roth_custom_hot_rod/ Great story about his rebuild. What I can't figure out is where is the radiator(s) for those two honking engines? Or, was this car just a trailer queen not meant to really be driven? Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 8-19-12 @ 8:36 AM
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| willys36 | -- 08-19-2012 @ 10:55 AM |
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I am very familiar with Dave's car and it is a magnificent jewel. In fact I was in contact with him during construction and advized him on a couple parts he was having trouble with. However his car has some pretty major deviations in form from the original. The bubble is a lot different, the rear wheels are new aluminum Raders instead of the steel/aluminum originals, the front pod is totally different in shape, the front wheels have slots that are a lot different. My goal is to come as close as humanly possible to the original. And it has always been a dream to build one so I probably would even if the original was still around. Dave's car is strictly for display, I don't think the engines are full of parts. Ed ran the original at shows early in it's very short career via remote start to impress the crowd, but he had to take the guts out of the engines and trannys in an effort to cut weight and eliminate frame breakage. It didin't work. You can see the radiator cap bhurried in the fur at the bottom of this picture. It was next to the driver's shouldere, probably had electric fan. I plan on driving my version so the driver's engine will run. The passenger side engine will be hollowed out and an alternator and AC compressor will be inside run by a stub shaft in turn run by a belt from the running engine. My radiator will be next to the driver like Ed's was.
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| willys36 | -- 08-24-2012 @ 7:34 AM |
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I found a pair!
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| willys36 | -- 03-16-2013 @ 5:37 PM |
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Agreed if function were the criteria. However I am reproducing a 60s show car so I couldn't care less about function; it is the look I must have.
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