| fordor1936 | -- 08-02-2012 @ 5:15 AM |
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After a four year hibernation my 36 is about to come back on the road, it was a rebuilt car when I got it with new running gear and 40 hydraulic brakes which work really well. I have done the usual brake adjustments etc when it was in use four years ago without any problems, the brakes were redone new brake hoses, linings, wheel cylinders etc. The other night I was greasing the front end and noticed a few drips beneath the left had brake hub which was brake fluid, I'm thinking sticking wheel cylinder but to get at it I need to pull the front brake drum off. Apart from regular maintenance I haven't had to do this before and rather than pay a shop I'd rather learn to do it myself. So any and all advice will be much appreciated, I've played with old vehicles most of my life but nothing as old as this and I do want to be able to tackle this with good advice from the forum. Thanks all Mick
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| 40 Coupe | -- 08-02-2012 @ 6:21 AM |
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It's not a very tough job. For tools I would suggest the usual plus a brake spring pliers to stretch the spring between the shoes for release as well as install properly. Take some photos before removing parts. The brake shoe with the long lining should be to the front, short lining to the rear. The wheel cylinder is specific to the wheel so you can not use a LH on the RH or a rear to the front. The wheel cylinder has different size pistons and the larger piston goes forward. Measure the size of the bad cylinder larger piston. Originally the size was 1 1/4" but that size is no longer being made 1 3/8, if you have to replace the 1 1/4 X 1 old WC with a 1 3/8 X 1 you will have to also replace the second front WC so that both sides of the car have matching cylinders of the same size. When you get done replacing all parts necessary then somewhat adjust the brakes and then bleed both the front and the rear, and readjust after for final. Good luck and do the job safely.
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| supereal | -- 08-02-2012 @ 7:20 AM |
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Any evident brake fluid leakage is a serious problem which can result in full loss of braking if not fixed. We recommend a full rebuild of brakes which have been idle for long periods of years. Almost always the pistons have become corroded from accumulated moisture, and the rubber cups deteriorated. More often than not, replacement of the wheel cylinders is the best option, and the master cylinder may also be in poor shape. Reliable brakes are absolutely necessary, both for your safety, and that of your car.
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| TomO | -- 08-02-2012 @ 9:18 AM |
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I agree with Supereal, if one cylinder is leaking, the others will follow along shortly. I would replace all 4 wheel cylinders and the master cylinder. You can purchase these at your local parts house. Specify USA made parts. Wagner re-manufactured master cylinders have worked well for me in the past. I have had trouble getting the off-shore made cylinders to bench bleed. RockAuto.com also sells the parts. Do a price check there before you contact your local parts house. Tom
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