Topic: Cracked oil port casting


Van    -- 12-23-2009 @ 2:49 PM
  Anybody have a fix for a small crack running between the oil sender and filter line tapped holes in my '39 85 HP engine? I do not want to pull the engine to weld it. I've been thinking of a machined clamp to force the crack closed with a set screw. The crack is almoust invisable except for the leaking oil when running. I don't know of any sealant that could be forced into the crack. Any ideas would be most welcome. Thanks, Van


37RAGTOPMAN    -- 12-23-2009 @ 4:43 PM
  HI
I would clean out the crack with a very good cleaner,then use a prep solvent, like the painters use, then use JB WELD,let dry for about 3 days,make sure when applied it is warm,
then see what happens,I think trying to drill and a set screw might make it worse,
a good auto machine shop has tapered cast iron plugs,
I used these in 1976 on a V8 water jacket and never saw it leak yet,
but you might have to remove the engine to access the crack,
hope this helps. 37RAGTOPMAN



supereal    -- 12-24-2009 @ 7:38 AM
  It is pretty tough to stop a leak by applying anything to the outside of the crack, particularly if the area is under pressure. It is worth a try, but I wouldn't expect a permanent fix. The port could be drilled and threaded, but I doubt it can be done with the engine in place. That outlet goes directly into the main oil gallery, and if it opens, immediate engine damage is almost certain. Old cast iron is brittle, so heat and vibration can contribute to breakage.


51f1    -- 12-24-2009 @ 12:54 PM
  The JB Weld is a good idea. I used it successfully to patch a crack on the oil pan gasket surface on the bottom of a block and stop a water leak. You need to vee the crack to give you some surface area for the JB Weld. Thoroughly lean all of the oil from the veed crack. There are a fast drying and a slow drying JB Weld. The slow drying is stronger. I don't think that matters in this case.

Richard


ford38v8    -- 12-24-2009 @ 6:05 PM
  Van, The crack was apparently caused by over-tightening of the two adjacent pipe thread fittings. As any movement of either fitting may increase the crack, and no drilling, tapping, or grinding can be done while excluding the resulting chips from the oil passage, I would opt for the removal of the engine for a proper fix by a qualified cast iron man. Otherwise, you can keep putting bandaids on it and hope for the best.

Alan


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