| Larry Lange | -- 06-23-2012 @ 9:25 PM |
|
Rebuilding the front seat of my 36 cabriolet, I've found that the seat won't move freely if I cinch down the nuts that hold the seat frame to the adjusting tracks...the left side moves but not the right side. If I tighten them extra hard the seat won't move at all. If I loosen them, both sides of the seat move fine. Obviously, tightening the nuts puts one or both tracks in a bind, depending on tightness. Is the solution to this just to leave the nuts loose and lay the seat springs over them, letting the seat move freely? Or is there something else to be done that I'm not aware of? I don't want to try to re-shape the adjusting tracks if I can avoid it. I think that would mess things up more. Any ideas or advice from more experienced hands? Thanks! Larry Lange, Seattle Puget Sound Regional Group twolanges@gmail.com
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-23-2012 @ 10:47 PM |
|
Larry, I have no direct experience with the seat track in question, but from similar mechanisms having been tweeked, I have used locknuts with complete success. Tighten to the point that prevents slop, but doesn't bind up. Alan
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 06-24-2012 @ 10:37 AM |
|
Alan, thanks. I may give that a try. Larry
|
|
| TomO | -- 06-25-2012 @ 8:10 AM |
|
Larry, try putting washers between the tracks and the springs. From your description, either the tracks or the springs are bent slightly and the washers may allow free movement. Tom
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 06-25-2012 @ 12:01 PM |
|
Tom, thanks for the idea. I tried putting washers between the tracks and the seat frame but that didn't improve things. I'll keep working on it...meanwhile, I'm open to other thoughts. Larry Lange
|
|
| TomO | -- 06-25-2012 @ 1:32 PM |
|
Larry, the only way that I know to resolve the problem, is to look closely at the track as you tighten the nuts and hope that you can see what is being distorted by tightening. I would work on the right side first, as that is the worst. I had to disassemble my tracks and straighten the part that bolts onto the seat, in order to get the seat to move. The good news is that I found a silver dollar that had been stuck in the seat for more years than I have owned the car, while I was wrestling with the seat.. Tom
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 06-26-2012 @ 6:53 AM |
|
Check the clearance between the seat frame and the driveshaft tunnel. It's possible when you tighten down the frame to the tracks the frame is hanging up on the tunnel. If that is the case you need to put shims between the tracks and the floor to raise the tracks.
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 06-29-2012 @ 9:24 AM |
|
Tom, thanks for the suggestion. I'll check out the tracks. Larry L
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 06-29-2012 @ 9:25 AM |
|
trj, thanks for the idea. That could be it. I'll check it out. Larry Lange
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 07-01-2012 @ 7:26 AM |
|
The tracks have to pass over the wood in the rear of the seat. Make sure the wood is not interfering with the runners. Lube the ball bearings in the runners so they glide with ease. The linkage to the glide releases is not touching the metal seat pan.
|
|
| flatheadfan | -- 07-01-2012 @ 5:17 PM |
|
Larry- I am assuming that a '36 is much the same as a '35. I know on my '35 (a 19k original), if you securely tighten down the nuts on the slides you will lock them up. The only way to have an ability to slide the seat is to leave the nuts loose. Once you have the seat where you want it, tighten things down. Ford change that seat adjusting method in '37. Tom
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=4839 |