| Flatbob | -- 06-03-2012 @ 4:50 PM |
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My repair manual says to remove distributor to install new points along with using a "cam angle disc." Is this cam angle disc necessary? Would a test light suffice, light goes out and then set points? How do I tell the difference between an early '36 versus a late '36 distributor?
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| supereal | -- 06-03-2012 @ 8:55 PM |
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You can install points by setting them for about .015 gap. A "go-no go" feeler gauge can help get the gap correctly when the point block is exactly on the peak of the cam. Setting up on a machine is better, but you will be close. I can't help you on the early/late question. If you need instructions on more exact setting, I'll post it. An ohmeter is helpful in determining when points open. The cam angle disk was a dealer tool, and not common. This message was edited by supereal on 6-3-12 @ 8:56 PM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-04-2012 @ 4:00 AM |
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The early 36 distributor is very different than the late 36. The early is the same as from 1933, it's hemispherical coil mounts to the distributor with three equally spaced screws, one of the screws is in the front and the other two are on the sides toward the rear. The late is only late 36 it has a cylinder shaped coil with a flat top. The coil mounts to the distributor with two screws one on the side to the rear and the other on the side to the front. The 37-41 coil is mounted with two screws one on each side in the center. The late distributor uses the 37-41 style of inner caps so the early inner cap will not fit the housing, it also uses the 37-41 rotor and points. Both of the distributors are pictured in the 35-36 restoration book p.102
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| TomO | -- 06-04-2012 @ 7:43 AM |
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The reason for the "cam angle disc" is to set the timing that the points open. The disc was a poor man's timing device. You car will run if you set the points with a feeler gauge and the vacuum brake by the pinging test, but the current supply of points have been very troublesome in that the tension is not always correct, they leave out the brass pivot bushing ans have other problems. If you can find someone locally with a distributor machine and experience with the Ford dual point distributor, it will be well worth the money to have them set the points for you. Other than that I would send the distributor to Skip Haney. Tom
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| drkbp | -- 06-04-2012 @ 7:52 AM |
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Flatbob, The late '36 distributor will have a "68" stamped on the back next to where the distributor engages the cam on the engine. It takes the coil as the others have said. Ken in Texas
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| Flatbob | -- 06-04-2012 @ 9:51 AM |
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Thanks everyone for your input, my distributor is an early one, car was made in April & has the dome top. Just got my coil back from "Skip" as I thought that was the problem; now I will be shipping him the entire distributor. The car continues to backfire and difficult to start, Carb has been rebuilt (uncle Max) the fuel pump rebuilt (Ken ct.) Tank is clean (Drake) and fuel line & filter is clear & no debris in Carb. With choke out the engine runs a little smoother but only to a point then dies.
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| supereal | -- 06-04-2012 @ 2:58 PM |
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Remove the fuel line from the carb and watch the stream while you crank it. It sounds as if your fuel delivery isn't sufficient. That is why pulling the choke seems to help. Alcohol in the gas is affecting the fuel lines in many vehicles. The quarter inch line is just big enough to supply enough fuel. Any clogging quickly affects the delivery. This creates hard starting, missing, bucking and dying, often blamed on other sources.
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| Flatbob | -- 06-04-2012 @ 5:26 PM |
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Super, will try as you suggested. Thanks, Bob
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