| wilmalcolm | -- 04-30-2012 @ 11:33 AM |
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My rebuilder says I need either a new camshaft or ny old one reground. Where do I go for that I how much can I expected to pay. Ho do I know it needs regrinding? Thanks!
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| supereal | -- 04-30-2012 @ 12:54 PM |
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Are you running a stock cam or a hotrod item? What year? What kind of damage is reported? Likely cause? Old Ford camshafts are among the most durable to be found. The price will be determined by the questions above.
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| wilmalcolm | -- 04-30-2012 @ 2:53 PM |
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36 ford LB engine. I want to leave it stock. I'll have to ask the rebuilder why I have to have it done. I'll call him tomorrow. I measured the with a cheapo vernier caliper and the cam "lobes" all seem to be the same. Perhaps they are rounded over at the top?
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| supereal | -- 04-30-2012 @ 3:34 PM |
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Cam wear is very unusual, unless the engine has been oil starved which can cause spalling and destruction of the cam bearings. At our shop, we rebuild these engines, and have yet to have to replace a camshaft. I'm not saying your shop is wrong, but it is unusual. If the engine was oil starved to that extent, more than the cam should show problems.
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| TomO | -- 04-30-2012 @ 5:00 PM |
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I agree with the others that cam wear on the flatheads is unusual, but if your cam has wear, you are better off looking for a NOS camshaft. Try places like Little Dearbon in MN or Joblot in NY. Tom
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| wilmalcolm | -- 05-01-2012 @ 6:57 AM |
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Thanks for the reply. He says the lobes show pitting which is a sign of wear and that the harding has been worn down. Looks like there is pitting on the bearing surfaces as well. See attached image. If I get a new cam, can I use a later (49-53) cam if I replace the timing gear and the crank gear?
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| wilmalcolm | -- 05-01-2012 @ 6:58 AM |
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Here is another image
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| Stroker | -- 05-01-2012 @ 7:13 AM |
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You won't have to replace the crank gear to use any 32-53 cam. Stay with a pre 49 cam and bolt-on timing gear however.
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| TomO | -- 05-01-2012 @ 7:26 AM |
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The 21A-6250 cam shaft will work in your engine but you will have to use the distributor adapter in order to use your original distributor. If you want to use the 49- 53 camshaft, you would be much better off using it in the 49-53 block. The 49-53 camshaft has a projection on the end to mount the distributor drive gear. You would not be able to use your stock distributor with this camshaft. 36 LB blocks are hard to find and IMHO should not be modified as the later blocks give you more options and better cooling that is required for modified engines. Leave the 36 blocks to the purists. Tom
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| wilmalcolm | -- 05-01-2012 @ 8:25 AM |
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I have the LB engine and it is ready for reassembly-cleaned and rebored- so I am sticking with that block. I saw the proper cam at Little Dearborn so I will probably go with that. Did anybody look at the photos and determine if my old cam is useable as is? If not, I will probably go with the Little Dearborn one. thanks This message was edited by wilmalcolm on 5-1-12 @ 9:04 AM
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| supereal | -- 05-01-2012 @ 11:22 AM |
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I've seen better looking cams. That one appears to have sat idle for a very long time. I'd be concerned about the cam bearings and others before sinking a lot of money into the rebuild. At our shop, we regrind and polish crankshafts, but camshafts are a whole different area. Regrinding will affect the hardening, as well as the lobe contour. There is no advantage to using a later, 8BA, camshaft. There are plenty of good original style shafts around. Suggesting grinding the camshaft raises some doubt about the rebuilder's experience with these old engines.
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| wilmalcolm | -- 05-01-2012 @ 12:16 PM |
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The rebuilder first suggested a new one. He said the regrinder would reharden it. It sounds like the best advice is get a new one since the cost is not much more
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