| 36fordor | -- 02-20-2012 @ 4:41 AM |
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Have had pair of Skip's modified water pumps on my 36 Fordor for about four years now. Helped perhaps slightly but always could be better. Anyone had any experience with Drake's new water pumps (part #68-8502-N)? Comments? I've done about everything out there to keep the 36's temp down but it seems like a losing battle in the summertime in Indiana. Thanks.
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| supereal | -- 02-20-2012 @ 7:00 AM |
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If increasing coolant flow reduced operating temperature, your problem is more than likely a partially plugged radiator, or one internally lime coated. A lime deposit no thicker than paint will substantially reduce efficiency. As radiator shops are mostly gone, it may be time to consider investing in a new radiator. Here, in Iowa, my '47 couldn't go around the block without heating. After lots of other tries to clean the system, a new radiator was installed, and I can run in traffic or on the hiway all summer with the gauge at half scale using the old style water pumps. This message was edited by supereal on 2-20-12 @ 7:01 AM
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| TomO | -- 02-20-2012 @ 7:20 AM |
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When does your 36 over heat? If it overheats driving down the road, the coolant flow is probably impeded, (plugged radiator, collapsed lower hose, or plugged passages in the block) plugged exhaust or timing problem. The crankshaft gear is seldom replaced when an engine is rebuilt and can be worn just like the cam gear can. Check the gear by examining the driving surfaces for wear. If it only overheats when driving slowly, the fan is not pulling enough air through the radiator or there is too much paint or dirt on the fins. I seriously doubt that changing your water pumps from Skip's rebuilt pumps will help much. The new pumps have a smoother surface inside and are more efficient than old pumps, but there is probably very little difference between the new pumps and Skip's rebuilt pumps. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 2-20-12 @ 7:25 AM
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| flatheadfan | -- 02-20-2012 @ 9:59 AM |
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There are several good comments listed above but let me add one more. On '35s ('36s have something similar), there is a metal shield between the bottom of the radiator and the front crossmember. This fills the gap between the two. For reason I don't understand this panel often is removed with the thought it aids in engine cooling. In reality just the opposite happens. The fan takes the easy way out and pulls the air up from below and not through the radiator thus reducing the effect of the fan on radiator cooling. Again, a lot of good comments have been given but make sure you have the lower front panel or you could be wasting your time and money. Hope this helps. Tom
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| fomocoloco | -- 02-20-2012 @ 1:11 PM |
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my 36 ran hot and charged poorly for 15 years until i installed a 6 volt alternator and an electric fan. weezer
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| 36fordor | -- 02-23-2012 @ 6:02 AM |
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Thanks to all. Do the back tabs on the shield go above, i.e., sit on the frame or is it simply bolted to the frame from below. Just wondering the proper, original positioning of shield. Thanks again. This message was edited by 36fordor on 2-23-12 @ 6:03 AM
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| fomocoloco | -- 02-23-2012 @ 9:45 AM |
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i have one of shields too,just like the one in the 35-36 book. i cant figure out how to install either. weezer
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| flatheadfan | -- 02-24-2012 @ 4:45 AM |
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This is the shield I was talking about. As you see it bolts from below. Unfortunately, to install it becomes a two-man operation which may not always be convenient. To get around this I "sloted" the bolts on the end. This allows me to use a screwdriver to hold the bolt while I also tighten it. Oh yes, Ford for some strange reason used two different diameter bolts to hold the pan on. I believe they were 1/4" and 5/16". There must have been a reason for this but I can't see any on my car for the difference. So, I just drilled out the 1/4" to 5/16" and everything fits fine. Tom
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| 40fordor | -- 02-24-2012 @ 10:06 AM |
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flatheadfan, I have a 36 and never lealized until your post that my shield is missing. It only overheats in very hot weather and in very slow conditions. This shield is availabe and I am going to install one. If the shield is not there it is very easy to gain access to the distributor from under the car and this may be one reason it was not reinstalled. Just a thought. Don
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| 36fordor | -- 02-25-2012 @ 5:20 AM |
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Flatheadfan & others, you have no idea how much you've helped all of us. I had shield off & on over the years to work on distributor, drain radiator, etc. I even had the thing powder coated!. Back on now where it obviously belongs. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees. Thanks again. Ernie Wickersham Avon, Indiana
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| Old Henry | -- 02-25-2012 @ 6:02 AM |
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One other thought I'll add about temperature concerns that may help. I think most of us would prefer seeing our temperature gauges stay about where the thermostat opens rather than climbing toward the limit. But, keep in mind that, as in even modern cars, there is a wide range of acceptable engine operating temperatures from the low of when the thermostat opens to the high on the gauge. I determined that my engine was still only 200 degrees at the hot mark which was still well below boiling over, especially with my 4 lb. radiator cap. I think it is totally natural for the engine to reach that temperature in very hot weather, going slow, climbing hills, even with the very best of cooling systems, and that we get more nervous about it than we need to. Remember, the engine is not going to be damaged running at that high temperature and is protected from high temperature damage by the "pressure relief valve" of the radiator cap that will release pressure and indicate overheating and allow cooling well before temperatures that would cause any damage. At least that's my rationale to relaxing and not worrying so much about the gauge climbing a lot in the summer. If it's not boiling over - it's not too hot, yet. Rational minds may differ in opinion. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 2-25-12 @ 6:04 AM
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| Stroker | -- 02-25-2012 @ 7:18 AM |
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Old: I'm not sure I'm qualified to comment, (since I'm not always rational), but having "grown up" with these cars I agree with you. If you had a really strong radiator with a 20 lb cap, you could run all day at 250 deg and not hurt a thing. In fact, you might get better mileage, and your oil would stay cleaner. The overheating problem only becomes a "problem" when you lose coolant and create "dry" pockets, (not "steam pockets"), but areas of the water jacket that do not contain coolant or steam. Steam is actually a fairly efficient heat-transfer agent. On a flathead that has been run "dry", you will often notice that the paint is burned off of the cylinder heads above the exhaust valve area. Usually the engine will lose power and start "knocking" long before that happens. The big problem with "steam cooling" is that our water pumps won't pump steam. In the 70's UPS experimented with steam cooled Ford-powered Parcel Vans in the Mojave Desert. The rationale was that operating at higher temperatures would improve efficiency, which it did. The difficulty is maintaining adequate steam flow through the system to transfer the heat. If a flathead overheats (boils coolant away), simply stop and let it cool down thoroughly, re-fill the coolant, start the motor to run the pumps and top-off as needed. No harm done, except maybe to the paint and your schedule. So Henry, you are absolutely correct, and I believe some of our V8'ers are way too concerned about operating temperatures. If it ain't losing coolant, it's OK! This message was edited by Stroker on 2-25-12 @ 8:02 AM
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| flatheadfan | -- 02-26-2012 @ 1:13 PM |
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Ernie- Thanks for the feedback! Too often help is given to a honest question and we never hear back as to its' usefulness. Always good to hear how things went! Tom
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