| edscoupe | -- 02-17-2012 @ 11:53 AM |
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I have a 226-H motor in a 1948 ford coupe, is the gear the same as a 8cyl (ten tooth) or is it a nine tooth. Thanks in advance Ed
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| 51f1 | -- 02-17-2012 @ 2:27 PM |
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I don't have any personal knowledge, but the passenger car parts book lists the 10-tooth starter drive, part number B 11350, for the 226 6-cylinder ('49-'50) engine and the 239 V-8 engine ('49-'53, except the automatic) with a 112 tooth ring gear. My car parts book only goes back to '49, but the truck parts book lists it for the '48 models also. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 2-17-12 @ 2:33 PM
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| edscoupe | -- 02-18-2012 @ 5:38 AM |
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Thanks Richard that is what i thought but was not sure my green book only list the 226-G motor (B11350stater drive)i did not know if they made a ghange. Starter seems to drag or bind at first then speeds up and some one told me at a car show that i had the wrong stater gear should be 9tooth not 10 and it would eventualy push the ring gear off the flywheel.
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| TomO | -- 02-18-2012 @ 7:38 AM |
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I would check the cables and the ground for the starter. The initial engagement of the starter requires more current to move the engine, than to keep the engine turning. Cables that are too small, poor grounding, corroded solenoid and weak battery are all causes of the symptoms you describe. Another cause is worn bushings in the starter motor. The surface where the starter mounts to the oil pan should be bare metal on both the pan and the starter. The cables from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter must be 00 gauge or larger. The ground cable from the battery to the body and from the body th the motor should also be 00 gauge braided cables. You can check out the solenoid and cables by connecting your volt meter COM lead to the battery and the POS or + lead to the starter. Use a remote starter switch or have someone press the starter button with the ignition off, and read the meter. The meter should read less than .3 volts while the starter is running. Any reading greater than that and you should move the meter back toward the battery to find the resistance in the circuit. Maximum drop for each component is .1 volt. The grounding circuit is checked by connecting the COM lead to the starter mounting bolt and the POS or + lead to the POS terminal of the battery. Operate the starter as in the previous step. The meter should read less than .1 volts. The above steps are for a 6 volt POS grounded system Tom
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| supereal | -- 02-18-2012 @ 11:14 AM |
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The starter drives for both 6 & 8 cylinder engines 32-51 have 10 teeth. You didn't mention what kind, if any, problems you are having with your starter. Beginning with the OHV sixes in '52, different starters were required. The starter drive must match the number of teeth and pitch of the ring gear, or it will bind and destroy the starter. We just finished a job on a Ford one ton truck that was eating starters. We found that the ring gear on the pickups is different from the cab/chassis trucks, and requires a different starter. The parts places apparently didn't know that, and kept sending the wrong ones.
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| edscoupe | -- 02-18-2012 @ 1:47 PM |
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I have not realy had any trouble starting the car, every thing was rebuilt about 10 years ago, i have put 12,000 on it, it turns slow for first turn or two then zipps from there, infact it will some times start on that second slow turn , so starting is not a concern just wondering why, i will check voltage drop when starter is ingaged. The cables are all power line cable good and heavey, and new 6 volt battery last year. Starter may need rebuild.
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| flathead4rd | -- 02-18-2012 @ 4:26 PM |
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You might also check your timing. A few degrees can make a lot of difference in cranking. Just a thought.
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| TomO | -- 02-20-2012 @ 7:40 AM |
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flathead4rd, Good call on the timing. If the voltage drop is OK, I would check the rotor before rebuilding the starter. Your rotor should have no play when the distributor is installed in the car. Tom
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| supereal | -- 02-20-2012 @ 10:10 AM |
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It is easy to determine if timing is part of the problem. Just note whether the car cranks faster with the ignition off than on. If the slow cranking starts after the initial try, have your battery checked with a tester that provides a load. The "surface charge" can boost cranking at first, but is quickly used up. A badly worn starter will heat up quickly, increasing resistance, which weakens the cranking power. The starter draws hundreds of amps, and worn bushings may result in the armature dragging on the pole shoes, too.
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