Topic: Removal of rear window in 35, 5W coupe


35Rich    -- 01-20-2012 @ 6:17 AM
  I need to know the correct proceedure to remove the rear roll down window and regulator in my 35, 5 window coupe. Glass is delaminating. Any suggestions?


fomocoloco    -- 01-20-2012 @ 8:19 AM
  This isnt as hard as a door window. remove rear window garnish. Remove cardboard panal. Remove sheet metal panal. The regulator is now exposed. The rest is all nuts and bolts. Replace drain hose on drivers side. When I bought my 36 in 1995, the channel surrounding the rear window was the only rust on the car. Leaves and water collect in the bottom and don't drain well. Thus, it was rusted thru. We constructed an inner channel, raised the slope (pitch)to increase flow to drain tube. Welded it in place, and sealed it up with Pors. Hasen't leaked since. You should look for rust, and waterproof the bottom of the channel (gutter).

weezer


flatheadfan    -- 01-20-2012 @ 11:06 AM
  A '36 is "somewhat" easier than a '35 rear window removal. The problem with a '35 (especially if it is an early '35), is the screws that hold the panel to the body are under the upholstery side panels. This means to get at the screws you need to pull-up the side panels and bend them out of the way. To do that you need to remove the bottom panel that covers the rear package shelf. To do that you need to remove the nails that hold the shelf panel upholstery to the back of the seat. Then when you remove the bottom shelf panel bend it slightly so if can be removed without doing damage to the side upholstery panels. Now you can get at the panel screws. Obviously, this is not a five minute job!

Ford made the entire process much more easy in '36. They simply made the cover panel under the rear window larger so when it is removed (very simple to do), the six panel attaching screws are readily accessible without pulling neighboring panels apart.

Since you now have everything apart you may want to consider the lower drain outlet. The drain outlet is on the lower right-hand body just above the running board. The area around the drain outlet is a major rust-out area. To "modernize" things clean out things the best you can and replace the drain pipe stub with some common plastic water pipe. This is simple, cheap and more efficient than the original design. This is something Henry probably would have done if plastic pipe was available 77 years ago!

Note the differences between a '35 and a'36 in the following pictures.

Hope this helps.

Tom




flatheadfan    -- 01-20-2012 @ 11:08 AM
 

1936 picture:


35Rich    -- 01-20-2012 @ 12:36 PM
  Thanks for your help! My car is an early 35 and is configured as you have suggested. The screws are just beyond the lower uphostery panel opening. Bad design. I suppose I could reassemble with a "36" style lower panel. Anyway now I know. Thanks again.

35 Rich


35Rich    -- 01-20-2012 @ 1:36 PM
  On another note Tom, I believe you expressed an interest in my 35 Coupe in Auburn (rumble seat and side pocket). You may contact me at:

rvgrieve@isunet.net or 515 233 6069


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