| 36 conv sedan | -- 12-28-2011 @ 9:31 AM |
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Hi: I just changed distributors, getting a correct one for my 1936 model. It was serviced and checked on everything by my mechanic, but probably not set up properly as the car feels a little underpowered and not accelerating properly at upper revs, and it also overheats after a while. The car starts easily. This may have been explained before, but I can't find it: Can anybody explain how to set timing on the car? I live at about 5500 feet over sea level, in case that makes a difference. Thanks, Victor
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| supereal | -- 12-28-2011 @ 9:41 AM |
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The timing is preset, and adjustable only with the slider on the side of the distributor, which will give a small change on either side of the central mark by moving the slider. Any other adjustments require a distributor machine to check dwell and advance retarding. In most cases, with today's gas, you can set the slider at full advance, and back off the retarding with the plunger adjustment. The advance is entirely mechanical, so if it isn't working properly, as seen when strobing the distributor, the weights may be sluggish or stuck, or the flat springs may be weak or broken. The altitude shouldn't affect the distributor, but does change the carb considerably. If your car ran OK before the distributor change, I'd look there. Otherwise, you probably have a problem elsewhere.
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| TomO | -- 12-29-2011 @ 7:23 AM |
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Did you have another distributor on the car or is this the first time that you have driven the car? If you had another, what year car was it from? The later distributors had more advance than the 36-40. The timing is controlled by the break (right hand) set of points. As Supereal said, it is best to set up these distributors on a distributor machine. It is also a good idea to have someone that has done quite a few of them as they have some characteristics that are different from the other dual point and single point distributors. You can get an indication of the initial advance by using the vacuum gauge chart. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_servicelinks.htm You can connect a dwell meter to the connection of the condenser to the distributor. With the engine idling you should have a steady 36 degrees of dwell and it should not change as the engine speed is increased. If it varies from this, have the distributor set up on a distributor machine. Tom
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| supereal | -- 12-29-2011 @ 11:33 AM |
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The tricky part of setting dwell on a machine is to anticipate the change in point gap as the locking screws are cinched. The slightest movement can throw the whole distributor adjustment off. Likewise, it is imperative that the point surfaces be exactly parallel. Many "off shore" points have poor springs, bad insulators, and are almost impossible to use.
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| ford38v8 | -- 12-29-2011 @ 2:16 PM |
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Victor, as TomO has pointed out, the 11A distributor has a superior advance curve. This diastributor can be identified by the 11A stamped on the drive tang. You may have had this distributor previously? Alan
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| 36 conv sedan | -- 01-08-2012 @ 12:33 PM |
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Thank you all for your response. I've had some difficult time at work but will try to get to the Ford later in the week and check on the distributor. I did have a good working distributor but I believe it was a later one, with the 3 screw coil. I changed it for what I was told was the correct one for '36, but will try to confirm on numbers. Thanks again, victor
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| ken ct. | -- 01-10-2012 @ 9:15 AM |
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The 3 screw coil dist is for the early 36,the 2screw coil dist with the screws katy-corner NOT straight across is late 36. the 2 screw coil dist with the screws straight across is 37-41 one. ken ct.
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