Topic: popping


46fordnut    -- 12-18-2011 @ 8:03 AM
  i had my ford running for a while..as it warmed up it made small pops (not all the time). from the tail pipe only . after it was warm it stopped. sticky valve? i have a glass pac muffler . runs fine on the road.

100 horse running wild


alanwoodieman    -- 12-18-2011 @ 9:30 AM
  sound like it could be-use a little MMO down the card and pit 1/2 qt in a full gas tank everytime you fill up-we get some lousy gas these days


46fordnut    -- 12-18-2011 @ 9:52 AM
  ok...i just put new gas it ran out . did not treat yet. i was hopping that was it.

100 horse running wild


supereal    -- 12-18-2011 @ 11:37 AM
  Popping is more likely to be a cross fire, either due to a carbon path in the distributor cap, or between sparkplug wires in the conduits. It subsides when a cold engine warms up and dispels any moisture. The problem appears often in non-stock ignition systems using a "hot" coil. Sticky valves are fairly rare, unless valve springs are weak or the guide clearance isn't correct. Beware of too much MMO. It can, and does, cause sparkplug fouling.


46fordnut    -- 12-18-2011 @ 12:19 PM
  i only use mmo very little . and it seems to run better when i do. it could be she is just getting picky in her old age . i am also going to up grade octain . and see how she likes that.

100 horse running wild


ford38v8    -- 12-18-2011 @ 4:53 PM
  Do not up the octane unless it includes less corn gas. Higher octane in a flathead makes no sense at all, either in horsepower or smoother running, or anything else. In fact, higher octane in a flathead can translate to a hotter running temperature, something that flaheads don't need more of.

High octane is required in high compression engines to prevent pinging. It slows down the combustion, allowing the burn to continue further through the combustion stroke than regular gas does. This prevents the piston slap that is known as pinging. Our engines are downtuned, while the fuel we get today is much higher in octane than was available back in the day.Our vaccuum brake is no longer required to prevent ping, today required only to prevent distributor plate bounce.

Alan


46fordnut    -- 12-18-2011 @ 6:49 PM
  OK..so i will stick with low octane . but i don't have the vac brake on mine..i only have a small screw with a lock nut. but i don't have any ping ether. i want to use name brand i think some off brands a junk. ideas? BP sunoco? Hess?

100 horse running wild


40 Coupe    -- 12-19-2011 @ 5:59 AM
  The vacuum brake piston for the distributor advance is under the adjustment screw and the nut, inside the distributor housing, on the 46-48 distributor. If it is not there it needs to be. If you don't have a small vacuum line running down to the distributor area then you need one, the line does not connect to the distributor it connects to the rear of it and the vacuum flows through the casting into the distributor housing just under the adjustment screw and nut.


supereal    -- 12-19-2011 @ 8:53 AM
  The main purpose of the piston in the distributor is now to contain the vacuum, as today's fuels are high enough octane to prevent "ping". Most distributors will function just fine with the adjustment backed all the way off, but the vacuum must still be contained to prevent leakage. When the distributor is replaced, it is a good idea to also replace the rubber grommet that seals the unit to the timing gear cover. Most have hardened and taken a "set" that prevents full sealing.


46fordnut    -- 12-20-2011 @ 12:37 PM
  OK. next time i work on the points i will look for the line you are telling me about. how big is the line dia inside and how long? would you have a picture of the piece that you are talking about? hose and seal

100 horse running wild

This message was edited by 46fordnut on 12-20-11 @ 12:46 PM


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