| Flatbob | -- 12-06-2009 @ 11:49 AM |
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Stud broke off in the block can't budge it with screw extractor, am letting it sit with penetrating for 24 hrs., would heating it up help matters?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 12-06-2009 @ 12:52 PM |
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soaking a rag and placing around the broken stud area, and let set for a few days, and heating up will help, lately I have been using a good heat gun for this, instead of a open flame torch, do this a few times, maybe once a day, what ever you do ,DO NOT BREAK OFF THE STUD EXTRACTOR, IF after heating up and if that does not work, I would drill and tap the broken piece out, cause heating up might harden up the broken stud making drilling hard to do, I have occasionally , took a torch and blew out the stud, making a it molten and then blowing out the slag, this is very tricky,you will have to do this if you break off the stud extractor or the tap never found a drill bit that would drill this hardened steel
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| Flatbob | -- 12-06-2009 @ 1:33 PM |
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Ragtop, will follow your advice, thank you.
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| 48Tudor | -- 12-06-2009 @ 4:21 PM |
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Heat and follow with good penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster), cycle through this a couple of times a day. We sometimes have to do this for a week or so! Use a torque wrench to limit torque applied to the screw extractor, As RAGTOP indicated, DO NOT BREAK the extractor. (we have found the square style work the best). If you can not get stud out, go to a machine shop with a mill so you can very accurately drill out the old stud. chr
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| 39 Ken | -- 12-06-2009 @ 4:49 PM |
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Here's a link to a tried and true method for removing broken studs. Click on the link or cut and paste to your browser. http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/pages/studremoval.htm
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| supereal | -- 12-07-2009 @ 9:09 AM |
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At our machine shop, we often see broken studs and/or bolts. When trying to extract with an "easy out", centering the hole is crucial, as is keeping the drill bit perpendicular. Start with a small bit, and work your way up until you make a hole large enough for the extractor. We use "reverse twist" drills for the job, as they will often back the remains of the stud out when you get close to the edges. If you break off the easy out, it takes skill and special tooling to remove it, due to the hardening of the extractor. That is why we don't like them. The drill bit we use is a $200 item. If you drill off center, you run a very real risk of ruining the block. The method we most often use is to wire weld a nut onto the stud. The heat shakes the stud loose so it can be backed out. Soaking the stud with oil is usually not productive.
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| BillB | -- 12-07-2009 @ 1:37 PM |
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Here's another approach... http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/pages/studremoval.htm
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| Stroker | -- 12-07-2009 @ 2:12 PM |
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I have used a variation of this method, and it is amazing just how you can concentrate a lot of heat in a tiny area with a TIG. The only problem will be if it has already been soaked in Kroil, Liquid Wrench or WD-40 you really need to clean the area up before you start. I'd suggest a good cleaning with acetone, lacquer thinner or Brake-Kleen before you proceed. It's OK to soak it AFTER, but the oils will mess-up your tungsten if you don't clean things up first. What is new about this approach to me, is the smart use of a flat washer. I learned a good new trick.
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