Topic: too much body roll


okydoky    -- 11-21-2011 @ 10:45 AM
  My 1939 ford standard coupe has too much body roll in a curve.It was converted to tube shocks when I got it. I have reworked the springs, front & back. NOS tires all around. Still too much body roll in curves.

Also does anyone know how many leaves should be in the rear spring? The ford manual is a bit uncertain here.
Thanks, Nick



alanwoodieman    -- 11-21-2011 @ 12:08 PM
  has anyone put extended spring hangers on it? how are the rear tube shocks installed, do you have sway bar in front-a lot of guys put a 40 sway bar or aftermarket on their car.


supereal    -- 11-21-2011 @ 1:17 PM
  Two things need to be checked. Disconnect the tube shocks and see if they work in both directions. Be sure that they are correct for the car. Weak or non-operating shocks will affect body roll. The rear shocks should be mounted to provide an incline toward the center at the top. Shocks mounted only vertically will not control roll. Many aftermarket shock kits clamp to the rear crossmember and can be moved. Weak springs can contribute to body roll, so check to see if you have any broken leaves or tie bolts. The springs will have to be disassembled to be sure. Sway (Panhard) bars will help, but only if the springs are good, and there is plenty of rebound conrol from the shocks. Push the rear bumper up and down to see if your shocks are working, and they don't allow any revereration. Too often, they don't. Ford transverse springs don't control sway, so the shocks must do it.


shogun1940    -- 11-21-2011 @ 3:48 PM
  the way to stop body roll is to mount sway bars front and rear. 1940 fords came with a front sway bar, and there are after market ones for the rear, and they work


Stroker    -- 11-21-2011 @ 4:11 PM
  Okydoky:

If you are used to cars/trucks with fore-aft leaf springs, or modern stuff with torsion stabilizer bars, ALL early fords lean too much. Transverse springs by their very nature do not restrict body roll.

In fact, the whole idea of this "pivotal freedom" was a carryover from the Model T days, where the virtue of "articulation" allowed all four wheels to be on the ground on rough terrain. Today, Jeep folk disconnect their anti roll bars to try and achieve this when they go off road, although they would actually be better off if they had transverse springs. The hardcore off-roadies rely on frame twist to achieve "Model T" articulation.

Ford addressed this issue in the 40's, to allay the fears of former Plym*uth/Chev*olet converts. My 38 wagon had a rather pronounced roll, given its' heavy wooden box body since new, and dad immediately installed a Hellweg Stabilizer on the front. This was an auxiliary single-leaf spring that wrapped around the ends of the front spring, and could be adjusted with a u-bolt in the center. I'm not sure it did anything for body roll, but it jacked up the front a bit.

After checking out all the previous suggestions regarding shocks, etc., you might find that body roll, while disconcerting, doesn't really hurt anything. If it did, then all those early dirt track Nascar 37-40 ford racers would have been badly trounced by Plym*uths. The real problem is when the inside tires LIFT when cornering, which is more likely to happen with a suspension that lacks articulation.

This message was edited by Stroker on 11-21-11 @ 4:24 PM


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