| Flatbob | -- 11-01-2011 @ 3:09 PM |
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Received my fuel pump rebuild kit from THEN & NOW less the diaphragm spring (apparently not included with kit) reassembled pump. Pump would not pick up fuel from tank so primed pump with My-T-Vac and engine started immediately. To confirm my repair shut engine off for a few seconds and it restarted again and shut it off, figured I'm good to go now. Ten minutes later restarted it and took it for a test drive; while driving am thinking what a joy this car (272 miles on it) is to drive in spite of having only 15"'s of vacuum and 70-90 lbs. compression and returned home after 15 minutes of driving. Pulled into the garage, shut it down and attempted an immediate restart but failed to start! Checked sediment bowl and bowl was half full; disconnected fuel line at carb. & pump doesn't deliver fuel to container. So.........why does this pump work flawlessly from idle to 55 mph+ yet isn't capable of a restart after car has been driven? I don't want to install electric fuel pump but am wondering if this is the only way to solve problem.
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| shogun1940 | -- 11-01-2011 @ 5:01 PM |
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it sounds like something loosened up , at high rpm it pumps enogh fuel, but at idle it will not keep up. try disconnecting the fuel line at the tank and put you vacuum guage on the line , you should see vacuum and it should stay in the line for awile.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 11-01-2011 @ 5:43 PM |
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FLATBOB try this, use a different tank for fuel supply, use a line from a another fuel container, with a hose going into the fuel pump intake side,[ make up a another line for testing purposes ] and try running the engine, see what happens, I use a outboard fuel tank, if it is better, you have a fuel problem from the firewall back,[maybe the flex line,] check [ inspect ] the metal fuel line from front to rear, also when it does not start,check the spark, I suspect the ign coil might be also a problem, knowing FLATHEAD FORDS, run the engine till it gets operating temp, shut it off, see if it starts, if not use a ice pack on the coil for a few minutes and see if it starts, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| Flatbob | -- 11-01-2011 @ 6:18 PM |
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I really think this is a fuel delivery problem and nothing else. I will run a new line to a different fuel supply source & see what happens. Thanks for the help, Bob.
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| supereal | -- 11-01-2011 @ 8:13 PM |
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It is likely you have a slight air leak somewhere between the tank and the pump. This allows the pump to lose prime and interrupt the ability to draw from the tank. An old ferrule could be the cause, or a spring clamp, if you have an inline filter. Worm gear clamps are the only fix, in that case.
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| Flatbob | -- 11-01-2011 @ 9:50 PM |
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Super, am going to recheck all my connections, now that I think about it; I took pride in the originality of my car & that may be the problem. I have an original '36 pump on it and the fuel line from pump to carb. is also original and the ferrules as you describe may well be the culprit. I will have to bite the bullet and get one of the repo. lines or maybe cut the old ferrules off if I have enough line to run from pump to carb.. Bob
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| drkbp | -- 11-02-2011 @ 4:54 AM |
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Flatbob, If you are using the sediment bowl type fuel pump, be sure the gasket between the glass bowl and pump housing where it mounts is good. I have one on my '35 because it has the sediment bowl to catch stuff out of the tank. It can suck air in there if you don't have the bowl sealed to the pump. There is a screen in the top too and you don't want it slipped over out of place under the lip of the glass either. Also, be sure there are no cracks in the pot metal fuel pump housing. Just a couple of thoughts as I have followed this thread. I drove my '35 to the office this morning and I put a squirt of gas in the 97. Started right up. In 12 - 14 days, it leaks enough to need a little prime. Probably for the reasons the other folks have said. Having to prime is not the best but it makes it easy on the starter. I chalk it up to a little air leak somewhere and just drive the rascal. Ken in Texas
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| BrianCT | -- 11-02-2011 @ 7:04 AM |
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Another possibility is the connection between the sediment bowl and the flex line. Are you sure that the fittings match? It seems to me that there are at least two types of fittings. I had a leak at that point that did just what you describe.
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| TomO | -- 11-02-2011 @ 8:20 AM |
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Bob, the problem is on the vacuum side of the system. The fact that your sediment bowl was half full points to this. Did you check the vacuum action of the pump before you hooked up the input lines? Check your connections at the fuel tank, flex line and fuel pump. If they are all secure, try a new flex line. All fuel pumps have sediment bowls. The glass bowl is used on the later fuel pumps and not on Bob's 36 pump. The sediment bowl on the all metal pumps is on the top of the diaphragm. Tom
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| Flatbob | -- 11-02-2011 @ 9:44 AM |
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TomO, did vacuum check as you described after I rebuilt the pump and gauge showed no response. Really didn't expect that result and didn't know how to interpret it; I would think no matter how bad the pump is, especially after being rebuilt I would get some indication of vacuum on the gauge. Am going to recheck all connections from tank to carb..
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| 51f1 | -- 11-02-2011 @ 11:04 AM |
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Make sure the pump valves are installed correctly and make sure the cork fuel bowl gasket, if it is cork, has not dried out. It should be flexible in order to seal. Richard
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| Flatbob | -- 11-02-2011 @ 3:27 PM |
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I have all new "fresh" parts installed in fuel pump; THEN& NOW provided detailed instructions on every aspect of the rebuild. This message was edited by Flatbob on 11-2-11 @ 6:17 PM
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| Flatbob | -- 11-02-2011 @ 6:19 PM |
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Have run new fuel line (6') directly from pump to gas can and am still unable to get pump to work. Will try another fuel pump tomorrow.
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| TomO | -- 11-03-2011 @ 7:59 AM |
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You should see some change in vacuum readings when you operate the arm. Check your connections to the pump. I use a short piece of steel gas line with the correct fitting in the fuel pump and slip the vacuum gauge hose over the line. If you still have no vacuum, check the valve installation and the top cover gasket for proper installation. Most pumps require that the sequence from bottom to top is screen, gasket and top. The top should be tightened just enough to compress the gasket. The correct sequence for tightening the body screws is: Install the screws so that the lock washers just contact the body of the pump, operate the arm several times to seat the diaphragm. Let the diaphragm relax and then tighten the screws in a cross pattern. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-03-2011 @ 12:16 PM |
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Be sure that the cup on the pump arm is, in fact, on the rod. It is easy to miss it. We like to install the pump on the stand, then set the whole assembly onto the rod. Otherwise, it is possible to cock the cup so it doesn't seat properly.
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| Flatbob | -- 11-03-2011 @ 2:15 PM |
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TomO, assembled the fuel pump as you described but am still unable to get either of the pumps to indicate any suction on vacuum gauge whether installed on car or actuated by hand. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong but can't figure it out. May have to send the pumps off to one of gurus and let them correct the problem.
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| TomO | -- 11-03-2011 @ 2:32 PM |
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I think your problem wit no reading on the vacuum gauge is either a loose connection or a bad gauge. Mount the pump in a vise with soft pads and then operate it while holding your thumb over the input hole. You should feel suction. If not, do the same to the output, where you should feel pressure. Ken CT is a good one to send your pump to. Tom
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| Flatbob | -- 11-03-2011 @ 4:12 PM |
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TomO, vacuum gauge is not the problem, will contact Kenct and ship pumps to him.
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| Flatbob | -- 11-03-2011 @ 4:36 PM |
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Super, that's the same way I install the pump also.
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