| garyordway | -- 10-31-2011 @ 1:05 PM |
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Which oil type should I use in a 1940 ford flathead v-8? New to old cars and the V-8 club forum - thanks for patience with this Newby-
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| kubes40 | -- 10-31-2011 @ 1:12 PM |
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More information is needed to provide a good answer to your question. Is the engine rebuilt? Do you know what brand was used in it before you acquired the vehicle? What type of driving are you most likely going to do? City? Highway? Climate the vehicle will be used in?
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| alanwoodieman | -- 10-31-2011 @ 3:39 PM |
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if you live in a cold climate 10W30 or 10W40, if you live in a warm climate 20W50 works the best. Stay away from synthetic oil-you will have leaks that you never knew could happen. I use a zinc rich oil 20W50 Kendal and I live is SC.
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| 51f1 | -- 10-31-2011 @ 5:12 PM |
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Everyone has an opinion on which oil to use. And it's just that - an opinion. Any good brand of oil will work. Choose the weight that Henry recommended unless the engine is old and worn. In that case, go for a heavier weight. Richard
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-31-2011 @ 7:37 PM |
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And yet another opinion here: Modern technology has brought us some excellent choices in oil. Multi-grade, Detergent, wear additive packages in the better oil, and in my opinion, Synthetic oil should also be considered. I have no excessive oil leaks as some say will happen, but even if I did, that would only indicate that Synthetic is better able to get to places it is needed. Synthetic or not, no big deal, just don't cheapie down on oil, and change it often. As for additives, the top grade oils have all you need for a stock flathead. If we had the early GM overheads, or the later musclecars, a Zink additive would be a good thing, but it's not needed for a Ford Flathead. Do consider using a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas tank, though. Our corn gas of modern times raises h*ll with the fuel system and varnishes our valves. MMM protects your fuel system from the rust that comes with the new gas, and helps prevent sticky varnished valves. Alan
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| supereal | -- 10-31-2011 @ 8:13 PM |
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We don't guarantee rebuilt engines if full synthetic is used against oil leaks, as primitive seals usually don't hold it well, and if used before breakin is complete, you run the risk that that piston rings won't fully seat. Synthetic is great in newer vehicles, and extends drain intervals. That said, six bucks a quart is pricey, and will buy lots of name brand conventional oil for more frequent changes, a very good practice in old engines.
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| TomO | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:16 AM |
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Modern oils are much better than the oils available in 1940. Use any major brand oil. If you use a multi viscosity oil, use 20w-40 or heavier. If you want to use a single viscosity oil use 30W or 40W. In any case, change your oil frequently, every 3 months or 1,000 miles, whichever comes first. The oil in the antique cars gets contaminated from combustion products sooner than modern cars, due to the larger clearances. Another source of contamination is the very inefficient carburetor. Tom
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| garyordway | -- 11-01-2011 @ 9:01 AM |
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Wow - thanks everyone for feedback. This car had engine rebuild in 1985 and has been in long term storage since. I live in PNW and will be a Sunday driver around town. I believe the guy used 30W - nothing special. Thanks again - I'm glad I signed up to this forum, very helpful for a rookie.
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| 51f1 | -- 11-01-2011 @ 11:38 AM |
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I used synthetic oil in my 8RT for two years after I rebuilt it, and I didn't notice any excessive oil leaks (a few drips from the rear seal, which I consider normal). I switched to non-synthetic because I don't see any advantage to using synthetic in an old engine. Richard
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