| Leeds | -- 09-24-2011 @ 10:26 AM |
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I have a 1940 Ford Deluxe Sedan with ignition problems. The key will not turn, the steering wheel is locked. What is the solution to this kind of problem? I have loosened the switch key housing from the dashboard and can move that up and down about 3/4 inch. Is it going to be necessary to drill out the key assembly? I drilled on the right side of the togle switch in an attempt to pull the pin out of the slot in the steering rod, that did not work becuse I didn't drill it all out. This car is scheduled to be shipped to Norway where my cousin has purchased it and we are anxious to get it on the way.Are there any photos available of this switch key and togle switch unit? I am not aware how the pin slides in and out of the slotch on the steering rod. If repairs fail, is it possible to buy a this switch key unit or does someone have good used steering column For Sale that would include this unitHere is my phone number if you have any ideas: 701-772-4609. Thanks, Reg Urness
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| kubes40 | -- 09-24-2011 @ 12:04 PM |
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You will rarely see the entire column drop with the lock assembly for sale as a unit. Your best bet in my opinion is to removed the pin on the column drop that holds the cylinder in place. Then the cylinder can be removed and you can move the lock manually. In the meantime you could perhaps locate a replacement cylinder. Be aware the reproductions are poor. Be careful removing the pin. Drill straight and in the center.
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| Leeds | -- 09-24-2011 @ 3:29 PM |
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After sending this to the Forum, I drilled out the pin you referred to and the cylinder came out. I then moved the steering lock manually. Do you know of a company that sells the cylinders? I am also in need of the locking key that holds the shifting rod up. It is attached at the end of the rod under the steering wheel. Thanks for your help.
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| kubes40 | -- 09-24-2011 @ 3:56 PM |
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Leeds, I am not certain what you mean by a locking key that holds up the shift rod. Perhaps you can send a photo? I have locks with keys. Email me: kubes40@att.net Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| alanwoodieman | -- 09-24-2011 @ 5:32 PM |
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he, I think is refering to the lock ring that goes on the end of the shaft as it is coming thru the bell on the end of the tube--some call it a half-moon key
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| JM | -- 09-24-2011 @ 6:05 PM |
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If you did not damage your existing ignition lock cylinder in some way while trying to remove it from the drop, you could have a new key cut from the number code found on the side of the cylinder. If the new cut key still doesn't work, you might try spraying some PB Blaster or kroil into the key slot and work the key in and out and side to side. By doing this you may free up a pin or two that could be stuck in the cylinder preventing it from opening. If these attempts fail a good automotive lock smith could remove the old pins and replace with new pins that will work with the new key cut to the number code. There is a good lock smith named Leon Rowel (sp?) who does very good work at a reasonable cost. I have his contact info saved in my computer files which are not accessible right now. I could post that info tomorrow or maybe someone else on this forum will have this info and could post it tonight. Also, another thought to keep in mind. The passenger door lock cylinder is usually keyed the same as the ignition. Will your existing key fit that door lock? If you replace ignition lock with a new cylinder and key you loose the one key fits both locks feature. JM This message was edited by JM on 9-24-11 @ 6:28 PM
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| oldford2 | -- 09-25-2011 @ 5:25 AM |
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I lost my keys to our 46 and the spare key only worked if you "jiggled" it to make it work. So, I drilled the locking plug with an 8-32 tap drill and tapped it. Screwed an 8-32 bolt in and the plug pulled out easily. Then I sent the cylinder code number to 32phil (Fordbarn) and he made me 2 keys from the number. Worked perfectly in ignition and door locks. Then I found that the plug dia hole was the right size for a 1/4-28 tap and tapped the hole. I then put a 1/4 28 set screw in. Now by tapping the plug hole it did not change the diameter so I can put a plug back in. Before I install the plug I will drill and tap it for a 8-32 for easy removal if I ever have to remove it. I am sort of guessing at some of these tap sizes from memory and I am away for the weekend so will verify when we get home. John
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