| 4ford | -- 09-20-2011 @ 12:37 PM |
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Hello what a am i missing trying to install an updated distributor in my 1941 v8 flathead. Changed the timeing cover installed new gear on cam, now the water pump belt hits the distributor****** Now what do i need to change to make this work?? any help??
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-20-2011 @ 1:31 PM |
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How about 8BA pumps? Alan
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| 4ford | -- 09-20-2011 @ 1:40 PM |
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do i need to change the crank pully also? and will those pumps work? Thanks
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| alanwoodieman | -- 09-20-2011 @ 2:14 PM |
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you will need the truck pumps 8RT, they use the wide belt, have the motor mounts on them ,they move the belt groove out further for clearance. Do you now have a double groove pulley, if not you will need to change the pulley
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| Stroker | -- 09-20-2011 @ 2:23 PM |
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4ford: The 8BA re-design required that the belt be moved forward in order to clear the posthole distributor design. So... you will have to change-out the pumps, crank pulley, and generator. In addition, the 8BA style right hand cylinder head had a provision for clamping the distributor in place, which is not present on your 59A style heads. The later pumps will work on your 59A, but your proposed conversion is hardly worth the trouble. Why don't you just go with an MSD 8353 front mount ignition if you want more spark? This will eliminate changing out all the above, and provide the same benefits. This message was edited by Stroker on 9-20-11 @ 2:49 PM
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| Stroker | -- 09-20-2011 @ 2:50 PM |
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4ford: Here's an illustration of the distributor I referenced:
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| 4ford | -- 09-20-2011 @ 4:00 PM |
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thank you is there an mallary that is arownd that will not need a box to run it. Kind of like an unilite? Thanks for all the help
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| Stroker | -- 09-20-2011 @ 5:06 PM |
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Mike: Consider using your perfectly good 41 crab-style Ford distributor with a Mallory coil. This,combined with good plug wires and wire spacers (don't use looms), will give you a very serviceable flathead ignition system without having to deal with pumps, pulleys, ignition "boxes" and other expensive options. I ran this set-up for years on a 281 inch Merc with Edelbrock heads and 3-97's. Dan
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| JM | -- 09-20-2011 @ 8:41 PM |
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Stroker, '41 was the last year for the helmet distributor. '42 was the first year for the crab distributor. JM This message was edited by JM on 9-20-11 @ 8:51 PM
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| Stroker | -- 09-21-2011 @ 7:34 AM |
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All: My Bad! JM is correct. I liked the crab style, as it was easy to wire, simple and compact. Apparently there were some issues with moisture due to it's simple cap design, but all in all it is great in any performance application.
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| supereal | -- 09-21-2011 @ 10:11 AM |
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We have installed the later, 8BA type, engine in several cars, the latest being a '38 tudor. The posthole distributor will clear the belt with the 8RT pumps. If the engine still has the narrow belt crank pulley of course that, too, must be swapped. The 8BA waterpump pulleys are offset, and won't work. Depending upon the type of distributor used, the carb may also have to be changed if the distributor is the later vacuum advance kind. As Dan pointed out, there is no boss on the pasenger side head for he distributor clamp unless you are using later heads. We make up a bracket to be placed under a head bolt, if finned heads or stock early heads are used. I have an aversion to aftermarket ignition systems, as I've chased problems in too many over the years. For street use, a properly setup stock distributor usually is the best choice unless you plan to constantly fiddle with the system.
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| 4ford | -- 09-21-2011 @ 12:55 PM |
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Talked to a guy in tex today that will convert an two bolt distributor with elct ign and rertronix stuff in it. and give me a mounting plate with it?? sounds like the best of both worlds/ any thoughts
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-21-2011 @ 1:29 PM |
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Didn't want to give you this advice before you asked for it: Your original football distributor, when set up correctly with a fresh rebuilt coil (not a new chinese coil) is the best engineered,and most reliable of any mechanical ignition system ever made. To consider changing it out because it's time to service it is not good advice. You'll spend less and have better reliability by working with the Ford system. You asked for ideas, you now have mine. Alan
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| Stroker | -- 09-21-2011 @ 3:16 PM |
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4ford: I agree with Alan and Super in this regard: If you are building a "driver", stick with a stock ignition. If you are building a "racer" then go with an MSD system, keeping in mind that it will set you back about $800 including the module. If I owned an 8BA, or 8RT, didn't care about originality, and wanted to make it trouble-free, I'd consider jerking the "post style" side-mount distributor, and installing one of the earlier "helmut" or "crab" units, simply because they are so reliable. Since you already have a 59A, why make life more complicated than it needs to be? Henry's engineers were tasked with the concept of simplicity. The Model T low-voltage timer ran directly off of the front of the cam, because that is the location that will provide the most precise timing. The lack of monkey-motion skew gearing ensured that the spark would be initiated at the proper time. Today's engines go one step farther, by eliminating the timing gears; and trigger directly off of the crank. Model A's and B's violated this principle by driving the distributor off of the center of the cam with skew gearing, but we'll forgive them, since they also ran the oil pump off of the bottom end of the shaft. Above all, AVOID "conversions"!
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| 4ford | -- 09-22-2011 @ 9:59 AM |
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So what all you guys are advising me is to leave well enough alone.. and the conversion to the two bolt is not a good idia. again thanks for all input!!!!! Mike
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| supereal | -- 09-22-2011 @ 10:57 AM |
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The original style Ford distributor is, as said above, one of the most reliable units, designed above all, to be reliable, and able to be removed, replaced, and serviced by non-experts. The mechanical advance is well suited to the relatively slow turning engines, As long as the weights are free, and the springs in good condition, there is usually no need for fiddling. When the all vacuum distributors came along in '49, the adjusting of advance curves began, requiring a machine. Most of the aftermarket ignitions require extensive adjusting to give adequate performance. If that is your "thing", go for it. For those looking for "set it and forget it", it is hard to best the original.
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| 4ford | -- 09-22-2011 @ 11:26 AM |
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thanks for your help. I have bult a lot of cars but not this vintage. and had good luck with changing over to elect ignitions. But if you guys think its not the thing to do well i like your expert opions. I will need to get the distributor becuse there is none on the car. thanks again!!!!!
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| TomO | -- 09-24-2011 @ 7:05 AM |
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Skip Haney may have a rebuilt distributor and coil for your 41. It should have 11A stamped on the drive tang. Here is a link to the website where you can get his contact information. http://www.fordcollector.com/ Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-24-2011 @ 9:04 AM |
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With the use of an adapter, you can update your '41 to the later "pancake" style distributor used from '46 to '48. It is easier to service than the original "helmet" type, in use until '42. That year, the "crab" distributor, a forerunner of the "pancake" was devised, but the cap caused problems when moisture came thru the radiator and entered the plug sockets. One of the advantages of the Ford system is that the dual points provide extended "dwell" that fully charges the coil. The disadvantage is the primitive vacuum actuated "snubber" that is supposed to retard the timing when under load. Usually, that isn't a big drawback, as most distributors haven't been set up on a machine to calibrate that feature, anyway.
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| ken ct. | -- 09-27-2011 @ 9:14 AM |
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If you install rubber nipples at the plug in holes your problems will be solved. ken ct.
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