| ole_Bill | -- 09-06-2011 @ 8:40 AM |
|
Can the pin be driven out of the door hinge using a hammer and driftpin?
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-06-2011 @ 9:07 AM |
|
Maybe, but I haven't been able to do it. Part of the problem is that the pins are so close to the body, making accidental damage to sheet metal almost a sure thing. The other is that rust and wear usually locks the pins in place. There are tools sold for the job, but they are seldom effective, I've found. To get the job done, you have to support the outer edge of the door to release the part of the pin that is worn enough to make a "step" that locks it in place. Then, with some protective covering for the door skin, an air chisel with a pointed end is the best bet. With some luck, you can get the pin to move. If not, drilling is the next move. This often results in the need for oversized pins. Replacing the pins is likely to increase your vocabulary, and is almost always a tough job.
|
|
| carcrazy | -- 09-06-2011 @ 9:33 AM |
|
It can be done but it is very difficult. I have done it on a very clean original 1940 Ford that had been in a museum for years. Use a good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster to help free up the pin first.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-06-2011 @ 10:21 AM |
|
They do make a tool, it is a small press, like a C-clamp but a lot heavier duty, I have never used on because was not made when I restored my 37, try a few of the venders, Like SNYDERS, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
|
|
| Stroker | -- 09-06-2011 @ 11:38 AM |
|
I had good luck on my 38, by using Super's air-chisel/pin punch method (with a regulator to allow it to just slowly thump) in combination with having first cut the heads off with a air cut-off wheel. It's so much easier to "thump" down, than it is to "thump" from below.
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 09-06-2011 @ 11:54 AM |
|
When doing this, rememb er that all the force you apply to the pin is transferred to the door hinge itself, and of course the door and the cowl. A word to the wise. Alan
|
|
| 51f1 | -- 09-06-2011 @ 4:07 PM |
|
I took my pins out when I was restoring my truck so I didn't have to be too careful. Some will come out pretty easily by driving them out, but some don't want to come out whatever you do. I've driven them out with a hammer and a drift pin. I have heated the hinges with a propane torch and driven them out. And I have drilled them out. If you drill them out, you can ruin the hinge. The tool described above was ineffective because I couldn't get it in place due to the contour of the door surface. I'm not sure it will work under ideal conditions due to the lack of force generated by the screw. Richard
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-06-2011 @ 4:11 PM |
|
It is a good idea to "buck" the hinge with a big hammer or other substantial weight if you have to apply lots of "thump". It requires a helper while you drive the pin. The culprit is the knurling of the pin. It creates lots of rust, making the pin swell in the hole. If it wasn't a painted part of the car, we would use the faster way to rusted parts to loosen, with a torch. Generally, penetrating oil doesn't help much because it doesn't get to the rusted portion.
|
|
| JM | -- 09-06-2011 @ 6:32 PM |
|
I have never had much luck removing hinge pins with hammer and drift pin. I just removed the upper hinge pin (passenger side) on a '35 5w coupe to install an outside rear view hinge mount mirror. I used a Bob Drake "C" shaped press tool that many say does not work well but it worked fine for me. I believe this is a beefed up version of his original tool that would bend under load. So far it has worked well on two of my cars but these are both low mileage rust free original cars. I'm not sure it is possible to cut the head off a hinge pin and drive it down in the hinge to get out. I believe the straight knurls below the head of a hinge pin would prevent it from coming all the way through the hinge. I have heard of removing the hinge pin head and drill and taping the pin shank. Then thread a machine screw into the pin and use that screw to pull the pin out from the top. Patience and perseverance are usually your friends when removing these hinge pins. JM This message was edited by JM on 9-6-11 @ 6:45 PM
|
|
| tommorookian | -- 09-07-2011 @ 4:10 AM |
|
There are 3 tried an true methods to remove door pins: None of them work. The "C" clamp tool only works if the pin is not rusted really bad. Most often the clamp will bend or snap in half from the pressure. You can't cut the top off the pin and drive it down as the knurled part of the pin is bigger than the holes in the hinge. The upper hinge is accessible to a hammer and drift but you can't do the lower with the running boards on. Taking the 6 screws that hold the hinge to the "A" pillar gives you access to both pins once you get the door off the car. If your going to cut the tops off the pins and drill them only go down about 3/8 of an inch which is where the knurls end. Make sure your dead center with the drill and only go with a drill 1/16th smaller than the diameter of the pin. Drilling gives the metal someplace to go when you try the clamp or hammer/drift pin or air hammer.
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-07-2011 @ 9:57 AM |
|
Removing the hinges from the car body is usually as big, or bigger, task than going after the pins, because the bolts are often badly rusted inside the pillar where they can't be reached. If you do try it, be sure to use an impact driver, or the heads will strip. I found that out years ago.
|
|
| gobbie | -- 09-07-2011 @ 5:51 PM |
|
Just purchased a 36 Ford pickup with no mirrow on right side, so I opened the door and found there was more clearance to hit the pin with a wrench handle and hammer. Closed door and pulled pin. It worked. No damage. ??
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=3713 |