| rdevarga | -- 08-31-2011 @ 8:39 AM |
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Trying to get the grease seal out of the rear hub. They are fighting back. 1. Any leverage type secrets to getting the grease seals out? 2. I see a lot of discussion about using synthetic lubricants to repack rear bearings. What has been determined as the true conclusion on the best type of lubricant? Thanks, Richard Richard deVarga Austin Texas
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| supereal | -- 08-31-2011 @ 8:50 AM |
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Be sure you have removed the hub snap rings before trying to pull the seals., There is an inexpensive tool made by the Lisle company to pull seals. It is a hook with a lever handle. You can get the seals out by using a tool such as a long cold chisel, as well. Hook the end under the seal and, using the hub as a fulcrum, hammer the free end, moving the tool several times to free the seal. Don't overdo it, or you may cause damage to the hub. As for grease, use only a fiber bearing type, such as Sta-Lube drum brake bearing grease. Synthetic grease will result in axle housing damage. The fibers pull the grease thru the roller bearings as they turn. To install new seals, if you don't have a seal driver, we use a common plastic PVC pipe coupling that fits over the seal. Place a wood block on the coupling and drive the seal into place far enough to clear the snap ring groove. The best seals have a red coating. The non-coated seals tend to collapse before they are in place. Be sure the lip of the seal faces the bearing.
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| rdevarga | -- 08-31-2011 @ 11:52 AM |
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supereal: Hub Snap rings were removed. I was using the fulcrum method similar to your recommendation, but using a small crow bar and a hammer. Stopped because I did not want to damage anything. Understood on the grease. I have the red seals. As for the placement, mine have an unfinished flatter side and the opposite side has the chamfered rubber insert. I assumed the unfinished side face the bearing. Correct? Richard deVarga Austin Texas
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| supereal | -- 08-31-2011 @ 1:17 PM |
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The flat side goes toward the outside so the rubber lip faces inward toward the bearing. Some seals, particularly the ones with the red sealer, can be a task to get out. I put a piece of wood or plastic between the lever and the hub to protect it befored I use the hammer. Usually, the casing of the seal will buckle and release it. Have faith. They will come out. When you have packed the bearings and put the seal and snap ring back in place, be sure that the axle taper and the inside taper of the hub are very clean and dry before you install the hub on the axle. We use a spray can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner for that purpose. If the axle and hub are not really clean, it is likely that the hub will work loose. In any case, it should be retightened after a few miles. Check the keyway, particulary the end toward the brakes, for any signs of cracking. The key should fit snugly, with the flat part up and toward the backing plate.
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| Stenny | -- 08-31-2011 @ 4:09 PM |
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In addition to what Supereal has noted, I use an old input shaft from a Ford transmission to install the seal. Most of us have one laying around to use as a pilot tool for clutch installs but the tapered bearing face fits inside the seal perfectly and the gear rides on the face of the bearing. With a few taps of a hammer it drives the seal in place below the snap ring groove.
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| 40cpe | -- 09-02-2011 @ 11:16 AM |
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I just went through this job. I finally cut the flat surface of the seal housing with a dremel tool and broke a section out with pliers. Then I used a sharp edged chisel to cut into the circumference of the seal housing. I went to the opposite side and did the same thing and it popped out. The second one was much faster.
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