| Dolman | -- 08-30-2011 @ 6:09 PM |
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Supereal, In a previous discussion you suggested using 140 weight gear lube in the steering box. The Yellow Book says 250. Called NAPA asking for 250 and the response was, "Huh?" Respecting your experience, I will use 140. But, NAPA has 85-140. Is the multiple viscosity OK? I would think that the location of the box cozy with an exhaust manifold the low end of the viscosity would not be an issue. Whatever I put in there, short of grease, would be better then the nothing that's in there now.
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| supereal | -- 08-30-2011 @ 8:16 PM |
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The heat from the exhaust manifold does cook the steering box, and causes the lube to solidify. Many put chassis grease in the box, years ago, but it results in excessive wear. If you can't find 140 Weight oil, mix STP with 80-90. The steering box is one place where 600 wt oil will work, too. Because the boxes ordinarily leak, anyway, it is important to have a thick mixture, but still maintain the ability to keep the worm and sector oiled.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-31-2011 @ 5:39 AM |
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you can buy the new 600 oil from the venders of the early car parts. LIKE Snyders. or Macs. or ask you FORD dealer what they use in the truck steering boxes, I have seen a grease with graphite added, its a dark gray grease. I would assume this will work well, hope this helps 37RAGTOPAMN
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| supereal | -- 08-31-2011 @ 9:00 AM |
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The problem with using grease instead of oil in the steering box is that the contact place where the steering is centered will have excessive wear unless there is an oil film present. Grease gets pushed aside, allowing metal to metal contact. This results in excess play where the wear happens.
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| mdurhan | -- 08-31-2011 @ 9:03 PM |
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In my experience, the cure is John Deere Corn Head grease. A Corn Head is the head placed on a combine to harvest corn. While it is a true grease and won't easily leak out, it is a very liquid, wet grease, like a bowl of fresh made cake frosting and will "melt" (settle) between the worm and sector gears, thus keeping them lubed. Stated in layman's terms, it is "great stuff". My buddies and I have used it in steering boxes for years in the IH/Farmall vintage tractor restoration scene. I have also used it in vintage racing mustang steering boxes, which are right next to hot as heck headers under the hood of temperature making machines. I can assure you - it works great..... Mike Durhan
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| MG | -- 08-31-2011 @ 9:51 PM |
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Thanks for the great tip Mike!......MG John Deere Corn Head Grease Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEwk_sYP6A8 This message was edited by MG on 8-31-11 @ 10:09 PM
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| joe b | -- 09-01-2011 @ 6:26 AM |
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MG Interesting video. I never heard of this stuff. Too much city time I guess. Do you use it in your Ford trans and rear axle?
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| ctfordguy | -- 09-01-2011 @ 7:38 AM |
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Hi Mike. Do you know if Tractor Supply Company carries the John Deere Corn Grease? Thanks, Bruce
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| supereal | -- 09-01-2011 @ 7:47 AM |
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Use only gear oil in your transmission and rear end. It contains high pressure additives necessary.
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| Dolman | -- 09-01-2011 @ 7:56 AM |
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Thanks for the tip, Mike. Unfortunately corn doesn't grow in Alaska. I've heard that corn grows at night and in the summer, we don't have a night. So, I will go with the 140.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 09-01-2011 @ 7:56 AM |
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dolman MODERN CV JOINT GREASE also is good to use, if anything take a beating and has high pressure it is CV JOINTS used in ALL FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CARS,comes in a plastic tube that all you have to do is SQUEEZE into the box, drive for a while and recheck the level, it will not run out, and is available in any MODERN AUTO PARTS STORES,!!!! HOPE this helps 37 RAGTOPMAN this is what I use, and remember if you have a old original lube chart. they say what to check every certain amount of miles, these cars were not sealed like the cars of today, so REQUIRE maintenance even rebuilt steering boxes will have drips.as time goes by, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-27-11 @ 5:36 AM
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| Dolman | -- 09-01-2011 @ 5:10 PM |
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Eureka! Found 250 weight at Restoration Supply Company.
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| Dolman | -- 09-23-2011 @ 7:41 PM |
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Dr. Super. I now understand your comment about steering boxes leaking. Filled the box with the 250 wt and it leaked like grass through a goose. I hadn't been in Old Henry's side of the garage for about a week and when I went to replace the coolant with distilled water, I saw an ooze making its way to the floor drain. Caught it just in time with a pile of that cat litter stuff. The box needs to be re-built and while looking at all the needed parts in a catalog, my eyes glazed over. So, lacking the courage to do it myself, I'm looking for a re-builder.
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| supereal | -- 09-24-2011 @ 9:17 AM |
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There is a replaceable seal for the sector shaft, 48-3591, that was used from '35-'48. C&G has them for about five bucks. You have to remove the pitman arm to get at it, and with any luck, you can get the old seal out without having to disassemble the whole unit. Rebuilding the steering box is a tricky job, and best left to an experienced hand. Most often, the worm and sector are badly worn, and either or both require replacement. That is when it gets expensive, particularly if the sector is worn. Almost every steering box I've seen has a leak, more or less, but it is p;ossible to slow it down.
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| Dolman | -- 09-24-2011 @ 9:54 AM |
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I don't know how many miles the pickup had been driven empty of lube so I'll send it off for a re-build. I know it will be pricey but I've never seen a hearse with a luggage rack or pulling a U-Haul.
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