| Dolman | -- 08-27-2011 @ 8:24 PM |
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You folks have been very helpful to me and I want to give some back. Here is a description and photo of how I do splices that may appeal to those want splices to look "pretty" and not lumpy. Put a butt splice in vise (don't crush it) and then use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to make a cut along the splice down to the metal. Peel off the plastic sheath and you have a ferrule. Slip heat shrink tubing onto one of the wires and try to keep it at least 6 inches away from the joint. That will prevent the tubing from shrinking until you're ready. Guess how I learned that. Strip the wire ends to a length that will leave about 1/8 to 1/4 inch exposed when inserted into the ferrule. That will ensure that solder will wick into the ferrule. Slightly crimp enough that the wires don't slip out, I use a small vise grips for that. Now solder with small diameter rosin core solder applying the soldering gun/iron to the ferrule. Apply the solder to the wire, not the ferrule. Let the joint cool, slip the heat shrink over it and attack it with a heat gun or a habenero pepper.
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| 40cpe | -- 08-28-2011 @ 2:56 PM |
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Good tip! My question is what type and wattage of tool is used to heat the connection to melt the solder? There are several types of guns/irons and heat wattages. Some would take quite a while to heat that much metal. The longer it takes to make the joint the more likely the heat will travel up the wire to shrink your tubing.
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| Dolman | -- 08-28-2011 @ 4:25 PM |
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40cpe: I use a WEN model 450-K6 soldering gun at 450 watts that I have had for about 50 years. They are no longer made. I like it better than a Weller because the heating element is more rigid. My heat gun is a Paladin model #1873 that has a variable heat range from 250 to 1,100 watts. Just checked on line and it is priced around $50. It also has a low and high airflow switch. When splicing, I set it for about 700 watts, high airflow and hold it about 2 inches from the splice. The shrink is almost instantaneous which reduces the heat transfer along the wires. Experiment on the bench to see what works best. Another tip for a smooth splice is to be sure there isn't a glob of solder on the iron before applying it to the ferrule. Wipe it across a wet sponge and that should clean it.
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| 40cpe | -- 08-28-2011 @ 7:47 PM |
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Thanks Dolman. That gives me an ideal of the wattage I need. I know the one I have would take forever to make a splice like you describe.
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| Dolman | -- 08-29-2011 @ 7:48 AM |
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My ancient WEN has had a lot of use and I got to thinking about what I would replace it with if it decided to retire. After an internet search, the Sears Craftsman Model 27320 looks like a good option. Living 160 miles from the nearest Sears store I won't be able to look at one on site until I have to go to the "Big City". You may want consider it.
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| supereal | -- 08-29-2011 @ 9:42 AM |
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My iron is a very old Weller that I have had since the '50s. It is 100 watts. Too often, the tool isn't held in place long enough to allow the solder to fully penetrate the splice, resulting in a "cold joint" that is mechanically and electrically weak. Be sure that the solder used is rosin core, not acid. We use a thin 60/40 solder for wiring.
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| BERTHA | -- 08-31-2011 @ 9:39 AM |
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Been using heat shrink gun like this for the last few years...works well. Bob This message was edited by BERTHA on 8-31-11 @ 9:40 AM
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| mdurhan | -- 09-01-2011 @ 4:59 AM |
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Great tip. Thanks for sharing. Mike
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-01-2011 @ 2:36 PM |
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I'll add my 2ยข worth to this thread: Heat being the enemy of insulation, before you start, straighten all kinks within 6-8 inches to lessen stress on the insulation as it gets hot from the soldering. As long as the insulation doesn't burn, it should cool again without distorting from the hot conductor. Alan
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