| j.grif | -- 08-25-2011 @ 9:54 PM |
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36 lower on left side by a couple inches. Thinking about rotating the springs to see if that helps. No visable damage noted but the springs are pretty flat. Its had a hard life.. Thanks
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| supereal | -- 08-26-2011 @ 8:21 AM |
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I understand that. At my age, I lean a bit, too. Swapping the springs end for end will sometimes help, but installing a pair of new springs will make a big difference. After decades of flexing, the springs lose their ability to hold their tension. New ones are not a huge expense, but worth the investment.
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| 40cpe | -- 08-26-2011 @ 11:11 AM |
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It could be several things, I guess. My car was tilting slightly to the left in the rear. I made a wedge, loosened the u-bolts, slipped the wedge above the spring on the left side, and tightened it down. Sits level now. This week I was removing the rear tires. They are oversized and I had to jack the frame to get the right side out of the wheel opening but the left came out without the frame jacking. Now I'm thinking the spring is off center by a little. Got to check that out.
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| Dolman | -- 08-26-2011 @ 2:14 PM |
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The front spring on my '34 pickup looks like the only thing holding it together is rust and it has a slight list to the starboard bow. I want to replace the spring but I can't figure out how. It is impeded at the rear by the axle and at the front by the cross member supporting the front of the engine. Will it work to remove the studs at each end so that it will drop down so that I can remove the leaves individually after removing the u-bolts and then install the new spring leaves in reverse order? Please don't laugh folks. If ohm's law doesn't apply to a problem, I can be a bit bewildered.
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| Stroker | -- 08-26-2011 @ 4:03 PM |
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A list at the forward bow...Avast! I'd start by putting some serious blocking under the keels, and remove the rudders. I believe with the application of a bottle jack under each end of the spring eye, you will be able to remove the nuts and shackle links allowing you to release the ends of the springs. That done, remove the U-bolt nuts, and plates, and the spring should drop down to the floor of the drydock for removal in one piece.
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| Dolman | -- 08-26-2011 @ 4:31 PM |
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I guess I spend too much time on boats, if that's possible. "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats" I'll try your suggestion this winter when I won't be driving the relic. I looked again but I don't know how far the top of the spring extends up into the engine cross member. If is less than about an inch, as you say, it should drop onto the dry dock. Just remember that the importance of a dropped screw is directly proportional to the depth to which it penetrates the bilge.
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