| ole_Bill | -- 08-18-2011 @ 7:34 AM |
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I previously asked about grinding of the gearbox on my '36 sedan and it was suggested that I needed to check the clutch adjustment. I did and was suprised by what I found. The previous owner was a "make-it-work" shadetree who never repaired anything correcrly. In the picture attached the top is what the drawings call for and the bottom is what I found (ignore the difference in size, that's just my poor camera work). Obviously the previous owner wanted to make the clutch adjustment rod longer and did it by adding the two homemade pieces. My question is: why does the clutch adjustment need to be longer than stock? All clutch components were new when installed. When I returned the adjustment to stock (the upper picture) the clutch pedal went to the floor, barely engaging the throwout bearing. I have come up with a (better) way to make the adjustment longer but question why it needs to be that way.
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| supereal | -- 08-18-2011 @ 11:44 AM |
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First, the bogus rod is incorrect, and too small, as shown by the comparison in the photo with the correct piece. If the release shaft, lever, release bearing and carrier are right, you should be able to adjust the clutch with the proper inch of freeplay. The wrong rod has a clevise that is too short, and the "mechanic" lengthened it with the pieces added. Be sure that the release lever is correct. We sometimes see that a transmission was swapped from a different year that used a longer or shorter lever. Some release shafts have worn holes where the pins that hold the lever and fork fit, and the release shaft, itself, and its bushings, may be badly worn. Sometimes there are grease fittings, and sometimes not. Then, we drill and install fittings. Same is true for the pedal shaft. Due to the geometry of the clutch linkage, any small wear can seriously affect the clutch. My '47 clutch linkage was so floppy that someone scr*w*d a piece of a tire to the floorboards to prevent the noise as the pedal scr*ped the floorboard. When you see a cobbled mess like your release rod, who knows what else was "jerry-rigged"?
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| TomO | -- 08-19-2011 @ 8:57 AM |
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The rod should be about 4" without the clevis. Remove the pedal return spring and check the bushings at the pedal shaft and at the transmission case for wear. Any movement in this area will have a great effect on the clutch adjustment. If the transmission bushings are worn, the shaft will also have to be replaced and I would also put in a new throw-out fork and pin.The throw-out fork pin is a straight pin and if it has not been peened over for a tight fit, it will wear and the fork will also wear there as well as the contact point with the throw-out bearing. Tom
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| 40 Coupe | -- 08-20-2011 @ 7:59 AM |
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If all of the above suggestions still do not solve the problem, I found that at one time Xxx'x auto parts was selling the clutch shaft that goes through the front of the transmission with the holes for attaching either the throw out bearing fork or the arm on the side of the transmission in the wrong position this would place the arm on the side of the transmission too far fordward rendering adjustment of the clutch impossible with the correct length adjustment rod.
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| ole_Bill | -- 08-26-2011 @ 7:46 AM |
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Every problem solved seems to lead to another problem. I ordered a new adjustment rod from MACs and when it came it was about two inches longer than the one that was on my car. I put it in and adjusted the clutch and everything seems to work correctly now. In the process I noted excessive play where the clutch pedal attaches to the transmission shaft. Just started a new thread on that subject.
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