| foto1man | -- 08-04-2011 @ 6:17 PM |
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Quick story first... When I first got my car eleven years ago, I was told the radio worked. Well the day my car arrived, I was in the garage in awe of all its beauty. I finally got around to the radio, turned it on, the lights lit up but no sound. Well to say the least I was very disappointed and then turned the silent radio off. The next day at work I called the seller and angrily stated, I thought you said the radio worked and then he said, Did you let it warm up. I said, oops, TUBES!! Then I was in awe again, I thought of all the announcements, music, news that has been heard through this radio. Wow!... Well, my radio has ceased to function. Yes, I let it warm up. Anyone know where to start? Any web sites to look at? Thanks for your help
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| MG | -- 08-04-2011 @ 6:24 PM |
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Check for power to the radio. Look for an inline fuse holder and if there is one, open it up and check the fuse. Make sure the antenna lead did not come loose from the radio chassis.
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| foto1man | -- 08-04-2011 @ 6:29 PM |
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When I turn the radio on the radio lights up.
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| foto1man | -- 08-04-2011 @ 6:30 PM |
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Thanks MG This message was edited by foto1man on 8-4-11 @ 6:31 PM
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| MG | -- 08-04-2011 @ 7:53 PM |
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When you say the radio lights up, are you referring to the radiohead/dial or can you see the tubes light up in the chassis? I think the radio dial lights from a different circuit than the radio itself. This message was edited by MG on 8-4-11 @ 9:27 PM
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-05-2011 @ 1:48 AM |
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Does it hum? If not, it probably is the vibrator that is bad (common problem). If this is the case go for a solid-state replacement which costs about $35. It is a simple job to replace and will last vertually forever! Tom
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| foto1man | -- 08-05-2011 @ 4:38 AM |
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Thanks everyone, When I turn the radio on the dial lights up. I don't know if the tubes light up. The is no hum, static or any sounds at all. Tom, You mentioned the vibrator and a solid-state replacement. Where would I buy one?
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-05-2011 @ 6:25 AM |
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foto1man- Try this site for a solid-state vibrator: http://www.radiodaze.com/auto-radios.htm Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-05-2011 @ 2:05 PM |
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I would pull the cover off the radio box, turn on the radio,[ make sure the battery is at full charge,] see what tubes light up and which do not. a simple remove and reinstall might get it to work,[ tarnished connections ] its beed sitting idle for many years, I do not think any electrial item would work,sitting that long, also tap on the vibrator ,I did this on 51 FORD to get it to play,this was in the 1960's this might get it to hum. removing and reinstalling the antenna connection might also help with pulling stations in, Hope this helps , 36RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 08-05-2011 @ 2:39 PM |
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Look to see if the filaments in the tubes light up. Most of these old radios used a series string, sort of like the old xmas tree lights that went off if one bulb burned out. If they are lit, then the vibrator is likely the problem. It is used to generate the high voltage necessary for the tubes to work. Tubes are very hard to find now, and expensive if you do. I had the radio in my '47 converted to an AM/FM receiver. It looks the same, but works like a modern radio. Try this site: www.turnswitch.com I spent a lot of time fixing these old radios, and I recommend having them converted. The FM band is static free, and doesn't have all those rightwing loons barking their baloney.
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| MG | -- 08-05-2011 @ 2:47 PM |
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super said: "The FM band is static free, and doesn't have all those rightwing loons barking their baloney." ??? POLITICS?! ON THIS FORUM???!!! I'd love to RETORT to your cheap shot - "rightwing loons" comment!!! cheap shot - "An unfair or unsporting verbal attack on a vulnerable target." This message was edited by MG on 8-5-11 @ 4:32 PM
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| Stroker | -- 08-05-2011 @ 6:27 PM |
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MG: I think you'll find that Super and I are probably slightly to the "right" of Atilla The Hun, but I will agree that "AM Talk Radio" is brainless. I also agree with you that this is not a political forum. AMEN
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| MG | -- 08-05-2011 @ 7:24 PM |
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I'd love to "retort" to both of you.......
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| Stroker | -- 08-05-2011 @ 7:34 PM |
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MG: My PM is functional,and is open to "retorts"; if Super's isn't, I'll forward them to him. Let's not pollute the Forum with political or religious diatribes. My political and religious persuasion on this forum is strictly Early FORD.
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| Dolman | -- 08-05-2011 @ 7:53 PM |
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Foto1man, I just looked at the schematic for your '35 radio. If is original, the dial light is on the same circuit as the radio. And you may be partly in luck. The tube filaments are in parallel which means one tube could be dead but the others lit. Some of the filaments in the tubes are hard to see, but the tubes will get warm. Put your left hand in your pocket before feeling the tubes. However you said that you hear nothing which suggests, as others have commented, that the vibrator is defective. Turn the radio on, put your left hand in your pocket and touch the vibrator with a finger in your right hand. If it is working, you should feel a buzzing sensation. As to locating the vibrator, it is usually close to a transformer and near a corner of the chassis and looks like an inverted can. If there are defective capacitors in the B+ (high voltage)power supply circuit, a new vibrator probably won't solve the problem. In these days of throwing away anything that doesn't work you may not be able to find a radio repair shop near you and will have to ship the radio somewhere. Anyway, if it were me, I would risk a $30 electronic vibrator and plug it in. If the radio works you're home free. If not, you will have a rather large expense.
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| MG | -- 08-05-2011 @ 8:56 PM |
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Doleman, Does the schematic show an in-line fuse? Also, I'm wondering if the wiring in Foto1mans car is factory original or if it's home brew......
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| Dolman | -- 08-06-2011 @ 10:00 AM |
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Yes, there is a fuse between the battery and the radio located outside the box. Because the dial light is connected to the on/off switch and it glows, the fuse has not blown.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-06-2011 @ 10:02 AM |
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dolman if you remove the RADIO cover it may have the schematic on the inside of it, my 37 does, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 08-06-2011 @ 10:19 AM |
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Almost always, the large "electrolytic" capacitors need to be replaced in very old radios, along with the smaller type of tubular condensers due to aging that has deteriorated the contents. Switch contacts and variable volume control resistors sometime return if exercised and/or given a shot of "tuner cleaner" available at places such as Radio Shack. Having spent a very long time repairing old radios, I can tell you it is a very difficult job without a "Sam's" diagram of the circuit, and even harder if you are inexperienced. I found more than one old radio where the owner had tightened the "loose screws" on the IF cans. Once done, trying to restore a radio without a signal generator is a job best left to an expert.
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| foto1man | -- 08-08-2011 @ 5:43 AM |
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Thanks everyone for your replies. To be honest I've never had the covers off my radio. There seems to be two front covers, one large the rides along behind the steering column and the other below that one. I want to remove the correct one. Could someone help me with the procedure to remove these covers? Kenneth
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-08-2011 @ 5:54 AM |
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can you give us a photo to look at ? to help you thanks 37RAGTOPMAN I think you just remove the little screws and pull the cover off,but do not know if we are talking about the same radio ?
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| Dolman | -- 08-08-2011 @ 6:35 AM |
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I'm guessing now, but the smaller box probably contains the suspect vibrator and rectifier tube.
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| carguy | -- 08-10-2011 @ 8:52 AM |
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My '34 came with a glove box radio that wouldn't work until I connected a modern antenna. I tried the spare wheel antenna but this didn't work either. Now all I have to do is figure out a way to install a modern antenna without drilling any holes into the outside of my cabriolet. Bill Brown '34 Cabriolet
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-10-2011 @ 9:49 AM |
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Bill- I used a "modern" type of radio antenna (actually, it was an old Mustang antenna), on my '35. Rather than drill any holes I simply mounted it under the running board. I have good reception with no static. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 08-11-2011 @ 8:14 AM |
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Bill , mount the antenna under the running board as flatheadfan suggests. It will work fine and no need to drill any extra holes.
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| carguy | -- 08-12-2011 @ 6:22 AM |
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Thanks, I'll try that. Somehow I was thinking that the antenna direction needed to be vertical for AM reception. Bill Brown '34 Cabriolet
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| Dolman | -- 08-12-2011 @ 4:53 PM |
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CarGuy, An antenna placed horizontally will work but because most AM station radiation is vertically polarized, reception will be much better with a greater range with a vertical antenna. Your radio probably worked when it was new. Did you try troubleshooting the lead in from the antenna to the radio? I don't know if the connector to the radio is the tubular type with a center pin or a wafer with 2 pins. Either way, put an ohmmeter across the center pin and the outer sh*ll or across the 2 pins. If it reads close to 0 ohms the lead in or the antenna base is shorted. There also may be corrosion of the center pin at the antenna base which would be resistive and severely degrade the signal reaching the radio. There could also be a break in the center pin wire at the radio plug or the antenna base. If you have already done this, forgive me. I'm a novice wandering in the wilderness with shock absorbers, water pumps and distributors to name a few of the challenges I've faced with my '34 pickup, but I light up (pun intended) when it comes to radio.
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| MG | -- 08-12-2011 @ 4:59 PM |
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What ever happened to foto1man who started this thread with his radio preoblem?.....
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| foto1man | -- 08-14-2011 @ 11:56 AM |
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Sorry MG and others. I've been here. I haven't been able to open my radio up yet. Busy at work and plus I have a 2 day car show this weekend and I don't want to open it up till after the show. I have enjoyed everyones post though. My car doesn't have an original antenna and I found it interesting placing one under the running board. I believe the original '35 Phaeton had a wire that run back and connected to the spare. Is this correct? By the way my name's Kenneth Hatcher Thanks everyone for all your help, Kenneth
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| foto1man | -- 08-14-2011 @ 11:57 AM |
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Sorry MG and others. I've been here. I haven't been able to open my radio up yet. Busy at work and plus I have a 2 day car show this weekend and I don't want to open it up till after the show. I have enjoyed everyones post though. My car doesn't have an original antenna and I found it interesting placing one under the running board. I believe the original '35 Phaeton had a wire that run back and connected to the spare. Is this correct? By the way my name's Kenneth Hatcher Thanks everyone for all your help, Kenneth
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| Dolman | -- 08-14-2011 @ 2:33 PM |
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Very interesting. Was there an antenna mast mounted on the spare tire carrier or was the lead-in connected to the metal tire cover? The tire would certainly be a good insulator from ground.
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-14-2011 @ 5:39 PM |
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Kenneth- Yes, you can use your spare tire assembly as an antenna. However, you may wish to think this over, first. You will need to drill a hole through the body sheet metal for the antenna feed. For me, drilling holes in body sheet metal is not one of my favorite pastimes. However, I have included the factory instructions on how to do this. You will need to enlarge it to read. Hope this helps. Tom
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| foto1man | -- 08-18-2011 @ 8:53 AM |
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Thanks Tom for the post. I'm like you, I really don't want to drill any holes. My car doesn't have a factory antenna. What should I use on my '35 Phaeton that would be correct? I liked the example of the modern antenna mounted with a bracket using existing bolts under the running board as an alternative. What did you use for the bracket or did you create the bracket? Thanks, Kenneth
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-18-2011 @ 5:07 PM |
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Hi Kenneth- Nothing really complicated involved. I just made a U-shaped "box" out of some sheet metal I had laying around the garage. The only "hole" I needed to make was a small notch on the top upper right-hand corner or my right wooden floor board. This was for the antenna lead to enter the car. Enclosed is another view of the antenna. As for an original type antenna, it can be fairly easy to make and does work surprisingly well (refer to next entry for a picture). The trick is to isolate the antenna from the body and frame. A simple way to isolate the tubing from potentially grounding is by the use of plastic water pipe where the mounting brackets are attached. Unfortunately, some of the dimensions did not come clearly in the drawing. The needed materials are: 76" of 1/4" aluminum tubing 11"-12" of 1/2" hard plastic tubing 2 pieces of 1/8" stock steel plates cut to 3"x 3" radio antenna lead, attaching hardware. Hope this helps. Tom This message was edited by flatheadfan on 8-18-11 @ 5:19 PM
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-18-2011 @ 5:20 PM |
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Original type of under running board antenna. Tom
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| 37 Coupe | -- 08-18-2011 @ 5:30 PM |
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It was previously mentioned that a company wwwturnswitch.com can convert tube AM to modern AM/FM innards. They really make a nice outfit for the control head radios as your 35 Ford is,the original cables controld their new box. Problem is man are they expensive,my estimate for my 37 Ford was close to $800.00 and that was if it was already 12 volt which it is not. I was working on another idea and it would be a lot cheaper,Ebay always has lots of the older AM/FM radios,the ones before electronic on off. Find one small and with knobs to turn on and off and channel tuning. I have seen plenty of NOS ones go for $10.00-$25.00,lots of makes Kraco ,Pioneer all Japan or Taiwan. All you need is a 6-12 volt inverter and make two sleeves tha i.d will fit on your control head cables and shafts of radio,set screw them on and you got the same thing for a lot less than conversion prices.
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