| grump40 | -- 07-24-2011 @ 1:37 PM |
|
One of the head studs is leaking slightly on my 59a motor. Is it possible to drain the coolant and replace/seal one stud w/o removing the head ? Is there another way to seal the leak ? I have not yet noticed any coolant in the oil. Thanks for your help.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 07-24-2011 @ 3:04 PM |
|
I heard of old timers , loosening the head nut,put string under the nut. retighten the nut, this should do the trick, its well worth a try before you get too involved. maybe teflon tape should also work and be better then the string, wrap in a few times around the stud,and retorque the head nuts, the worst is it will leak and you will have to take the head off, it really comes down which is easier for you to do and how bad the leak is, sometimes the leak goes away by itself, especially if you are just using water. I have done this on a MODEL A with no problems, if it is a recent rebuild you will get sometimes little drips here and there, hoses that need to be tightened, and heads to be retorqued.etc, I would also just use distilled water till you get a few miles on it, antifreeze has a habit of leaking water will seal it up easier. a little bars leak also will help, a friend of mine at a C,,,,,, DEALER, says every new Ch,,, gets 2 pellets, Che,,,, has thier own bar leak tablets, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 7-25-11 @ 6:44 AM
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 07-24-2011 @ 4:55 PM |
|
37ragtop, I agree with you... Kinda. Plain water and Barrs Leak, anyway. If he were to loosen and put string in it, he might as well pull it and seal it right. Alan
|
|
| supereal | -- 07-24-2011 @ 5:08 PM |
|
Forget the quick fixes. Drain the system and remove the leaky stud. You may have to pull the head to get it out, which will allow you to chase the block threads with a chaser tap (not a thread tap) to clean the threads. Then, coat the block end of a new stud with a sealer, such as Permatex, and run the stud down until it seats. I believe all of us old guys have had a leaky stud or two, and there is no fix other than the above. There is nothing wrong with some Barr's Leaks, and I'd put it in after replacing the stud.
|
|
| tbirdhandyman | -- 07-27-2011 @ 2:59 PM |
|
Grump40, have you ever used liquid glass to seal an engine? We used this to stop a very bad leak (water was running out in a stream) on a '33 block. I could not beleive that it stopped the leak. Robert E. Tbirdhandyman
|
|
| shogun1940 | -- 07-27-2011 @ 6:36 PM |
|
try just taking out the one stud and coating the whole thing with permetex and reinstalling,let it set for at least a day if that does not do it take the head off
|
|
| 1934 Ford | -- 07-30-2011 @ 11:55 AM |
|
Glad to hear Supereal say "There is nothing wrong with some Barr's Leaks". I just replaced a head that had rusted through on the top. Cleaned the block, surfaced the new head, replaced a stud, used copper gasket with copper gasket sealer from Permatex. Torqued them to 55 lbs., ran it and re-torqued to 60 lbs.. Got water in the oil. An old flathead guy told me to use K & W Block Sealant before I went to the trouble of taking the head off again. He said flat heads are famous for that and often it's so small that the sealant works fine. So far, it's working fine, but need to put more miles on it before I'm really sold.
|
|
| Hardie | -- 07-31-2011 @ 2:43 AM |
|
Probably a deeper seated problem, most likely the gasket. Best is to remove the head, find the problem, fix it and forget about it. As my Dad, God bless him, used to say, "fix it right the first time". Interesting to see someone mention water-glass (found in drug stores) or liquid glass (found in automotive stores) same product. Sodium silicate I think. An old fashioned fix for a number of things !! Mac
|
|
| pbc64 | -- 07-31-2011 @ 6:21 AM |
|
h*llo grump40 and anyone that can help me three years ago i replaced my block because i was getting water in the oil i changed my heads and went through a couple sets of gaskets to find the problem i just asumed it was a cracked valve seat on the intake side i am not getting anything out the exhaust i put the silver powder stop leak in and the leak stopped last week i checked the oil and noticed water again before i pull this engine again how noticable was the wet stud were your heads on or off ? thanks paul
|
|
| supereal | -- 07-31-2011 @ 9:20 AM |
|
More often than not, a water leak into the oil is caused by a crack somewhere deep in the block, probably the result of freezing the engine at some time. One of the usual locations is the "skirt" of the block inside and just above the oilpan flange where the block is thin, and coolent collects, even if the engine was drained. A good dose of stop leak may stem the leak, but it is not a permanent repair. We always make a careful examination of all blocks when we have one for rebuilding to be sure, as much as we can, that the block is sound.
|
|
| 1934 Ford | -- 08-01-2011 @ 6:59 AM |
|
Another source of water in the oil is the casting plugs in the block where the block meets the oil pan.The plugs rust away and when the engine heats up the pressure blows the water into the oil pan. A couple of copper pennies fixes that problem. Don't forget to doo both sides if you do it.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-02-2011 @ 4:32 AM |
|
was wondering if you got the stud to stop leaking,??? and which way did you use to get it fixed,??? 37RAGTOPMAN and keep on FORDIN,,,!!!!
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=3454 |