| Bill T | -- 07-02-2011 @ 7:07 AM |
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Trying to get my 33 ford readyfor the Eastern National Meet at Saratoga Springs. The car is a new restoration and hasn't even been started yet. That is the problem. It won't start. The issue seems to be ignition. I can't even get a jolt by holding onto a plug wire, turning the ignition on and turning the engine over with the starter. The distributor, coil and condenser are original and along with new points have supposedly been set up on a Sun Machine. The wiring is new, including dash/engine harness and fuse block. I assume it would be hard to screw this up. The wires that came assembled to fuse block can be connected to either termial on the ammeter and/or ignition switch with no effect on operation, except the ammeter might work backwards. So far, with the ignition switch on, and the engine turning, the red wire to the distributor primary circuit is hot. No pulsation is seen on the ammeter and no spark is noted on the secondar circuit. Note: there may be a small leak in the ignition switch. It shows a small bump in the red wire(less than 1/2 volt) when the switch is off. At this point: What to do? Is my reasoning right? Have I missed anything simple? I do have another distributor that was set up at the same time the first one was set up. If so is it possible to change the distributor with out having to pull the cooling system. I need advice. Thanks, Bill Taylor
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| TomO | -- 07-02-2011 @ 8:02 AM |
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The ammeter just shows the current in the battery circuit and cannot be used to diagnose your problem. If you don't have a voltmeter, go to Radio Shack or Sears and buy a meter with a needle (analog meter). Check the voltage at the input to the coil. It should be above 5 volts with the points open and below 5 volts with the points closed. If the voltage does not vary when you crank the engine, the points are not operating or the coil is not seated on the distributor. If the voltage does vary, then your coil is not providing spark. Your condenser could be the problem also. Tom
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| supereal | -- 07-02-2011 @ 10:47 AM |
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You can swap distributors without draining the cooling system. It is close quarters, but isn't a big job. Just be sure, when bolting on the different distributor, that the drive tang is in the proper position, It is made off center to put the distributor in phase, and if you try to bolt it on without being properly placed, either the bolts won't fit or, if you do get any started, it will break the ears off the distributor. From your description, I would suspect that one of the point sets isn't making contact. It will still show opening and closing of the circuit, but will not operate the coil. One set "makes" the circuit, the other "breaks" it. If either isn't closing properly, no spark is generated. This condition isn't rare in a long stored unit.
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| nelsb01 | -- 07-04-2011 @ 10:01 AM |
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Hint for you when changing out distributor...... tape a thin piece of cardboard over the radiator fins facing the engine.........will protect the fins from bending and also keep your knuckles from bleeding profusely.......... This message was edited by nelsb01 on 7-4-11 @ 10:01 AM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-05-2011 @ 5:15 AM |
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I find it difficult to check out an ignition problem with the distributor on the car. Some of the analog voltmeters do not change readings fast enough to see the voltage change at the coil terminal. To get an idea of what is happening and what you should see, take the other distributor you have and using an Ohmmeter connect one lead to the body and the second to the center pad where the pig tail on the coil would connect, rotate the distributor by hand and you should see eight places in every rotation of the distributor where both contacts of the distributor open and the Ohmmeter reads infinity. If this is the case the distributor should work. A 80 year old ignition condenser should not be used to run your car, I suggest going to NAPA and getting another. The coil will also go bad with age and MAY start the car but will quickly go bad with heat from the engine. The original coil can be rebuilt and will have no change in appearance from the original. When connecting the coil to the distributor make sure the coil pig tail makes good contact with the center connector pad and the carbon brush on the bottom should move in and out of the coil and when installed should have some compression on the rotor. With good components and voltage to the coil you should have spark.
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| TomO | -- 07-05-2011 @ 6:39 AM |
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If you just bump the starter, you should be able to see the change with any analog meter. Tom
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| watwasithinking | -- 07-05-2011 @ 9:03 AM |
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Bill T, just a reminder while tracing your electrical system... One of the biggest mistakes made by flathead owners is to leave the ignition toggle switch on the column drop in the "on" position when the motor is not running. If the switch is left in this position for too long the ignition coil windings will get fried and short out. (If the points happen to be in the closed position they will also get burned and pitted). It is very easy to get distracted or have someone assisting you and not familiar with this no no and make this fatal mistake. Believe me...I know first hand....this is how I got my name.... watwasithinking. Before replacing your distributor I would suggest that you simply swap out your coil and condensor with known good replacements. This should take about 15-20 minutes versus an hour and a half to r and r your distributor.
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