| Fat40 | -- 06-21-2011 @ 6:58 AM |
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I am going to change all 4 wheel cylinders and master cyl to fix the brakes from draging, after adjusting the brakes and having them free while spining wheel. Once I push the brake pedal and the wheels are draging badly, and the brake petal is hard all the way to the top.Is there a diagram showing the right way to replace the wheel cyls? Have replaced a lot of brakes on newer cars just not old Fords. Have ordered the wheel puller from Winfield,also should I use regular brake fluid or change to silicone? If I use silicone how do I purge the lines? I know this is long thread , and I appreciate all the help. SID
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| supereal | -- 06-21-2011 @ 7:41 AM |
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If you are replacing all the cylinders, you can install silicone fluid after flushing the lines with alcohol.. If your brakes are dragging, before you replace the parts, adjust the pedal free play. Disconnect the rod that works the master cylinder, and adjust it to allow at least an inch of pedal free play before the piston is moved. Dragging brakes after adjustment are almost always due to lack of free play if more than one wheel is involved. We don't use silicone as it is very hard to bleed completely due to entrained air, as well as quite expensive by the time you bleed enough to get a usable pedal.
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| TomO | -- 06-22-2011 @ 8:55 AM |
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I agree with Supereal, pull the wheels and check the brake shoes for wear and the wheel cylinders for seepage. If everything is OK, save your replacement for another day. If you have enough free play, you may have a problem with the flexible hose leading to the back brakes. I would only change to silicone fluid when a complete restoration of the brake system is being done. Bleeding the brakes can be a problem as Silicone tends to entrain air in very small foam like bubbles. I would flush the DOT 3 fluid at least every 3rd year and more often if you live in an area with high humidity. Tom
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| Fat40 | -- 06-22-2011 @ 11:58 AM |
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I have another question when I pull front and back wheels,what do you torque the wheels to when you put them back on. Thank You-----------SID
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| supereal | -- 06-22-2011 @ 12:26 PM |
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After repacking the front bearings, tighten down the spindle nut as far as you can go to squeeze out excess grease, then back off the nut enough to allow the cotter pin to be inserted, being sure the drum turns freely. On the rears, clean the end of the axle with a solvent, then wipe it dry. Be sure the inner taper in the hub is also clean, and the key is in place with the slope toward the backing plate. Install a new outer hub seal, then the washer and the nut. Tighten the nut as much as you can with a wrench. There is no "official" torque setting. We use a long "breaker bar" with a pipe extension or an air wrench set at "high". If you need to move the nut enough to insert the cotter pin, back off the nut just enough to do so. A tip: before you replace the hub, mark the end of the axle with a file or hacksaw to show the position of the cotter pin hole. It will be a big help in locating it when the nut is in place. Readjust all brakes. Be sure to check and retighten the rear axle nuts after driving at least a hundred miles.
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| Fat40 | -- 06-23-2011 @ 9:46 AM |
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Thanks to all of you for your help. SID
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