| ellis734 | -- 06-19-2011 @ 6:02 PM |
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I removed the starter from my 1938 Ford 85 hp engine only to have it "spring" on me. I can't get the gap closed allowing the screws to go the whole way through in order to reattach it to the engine. If that makes sense to anyone, any suggestions?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-19-2011 @ 6:20 PM |
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your bendix drive is probably out to the end not alowing the starter to be installed, just wind the bendix so it is close to the starter housing, I would inspect the spring,and make sure the bendix is free and not binding. a little lube to make it spin freely back and forth on the starter shaft, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN let hear how you made out,!
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| supereal | -- 06-19-2011 @ 6:20 PM |
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We have all been there. Be sure the brushes are all in place by removing the band and taking a look. If not, using wire hook, pull them up and reset them on the commutator. If more than one has escaped, pull them up and set them on the holder, then put the rotor in place, then unhook and allow the brushes to rest on the commutator. Align the front plate with the rear, and put the through bolts in place so the starter can be reattached to the mount.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 06-19-2011 @ 6:21 PM |
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sounds like the brushes have dislodged, the armature shaft has been moved and the brushes have dropped, remove the band around the starter and look to see if they are out of place, take a bent piece of coat hanger wire and pull the springs up thereby allowing the brushes to be put back on top of the armature
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| ford38v8 | -- 06-19-2011 @ 7:00 PM |
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Ellis, Do not fail to reinstall the small tab from the front of the starter to the oilpan. This is required for support against movement under the high torque experienced by the starter case in use. Without this brace, the Bendix spring gear will bind on the flywheel. Remember also that the two long bolts and the unpainted front surface of the starter represent the only electrical connection to the engine, completing the circuit to the battery. Partial loss of this electrical connection can result in high resistance, the bane of all Early Ford V8's, whether 6 or 12 Volt. Alan
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| supereal | -- 06-20-2011 @ 8:58 AM |
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That is why we install a gound link to one of the starter mounting bolts and the ground strap. You can use a 12 volt cable with eyelets on each end for that putpose, as it doesn't carry the full voltage.
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| TomO | -- 06-20-2011 @ 1:54 PM |
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The easy way to put the starter armature in the case is to push the brushes up into their holders and let the spring rest against the side of the brush. Assemble the starter and then push the brushes in towards the commutator and allow the spring to set on the back of the brush. See photo http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u197/mercurytom/brush-spring-web.jpg Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-20-11 @ 1:55 PM
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| ellis734 | -- 06-21-2011 @ 7:59 AM |
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I took this all apart about 6 months ago and am now getting back to it. I got the brushes in place and starter back together. I can't remember where the support bracket went? I'm losing it.
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| ellis734 | -- 06-21-2011 @ 8:00 AM |
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I got the starter back together but can't remeber the proper positioning of the support bracket.
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| Stroker | -- 06-21-2011 @ 8:35 AM |
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You will need to remove the through-bolt closest to the engine, and install the little angle bracket under the head of that bolt. The other end of the bracket attaches under the adjacent oil pan bolt.
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| ellis734 | -- 06-21-2011 @ 6:38 PM |
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Got it, thank you.
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