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parrish
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-- 06-17-2011 @ 7:41 PM
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What is the correct sequence for installing the glass in a coupe door? (My passenger door has new felt anti-rattlers installed on the door, but the driver door does not yet). The center crank stop bolt with shoulder has been removed, so I'm ready to guide the rollers into the glass frame channel, but can't get clearance to insert the glass frame channel "ears" into the lower metal side channels. Does the glass go in from the top through the window or from the bottom between the diagonal brace? I can get the glass in through the bottom, but that's as far as it goes...
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trjford8
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-- 06-18-2011 @ 8:53 AM
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On a 39 the door glass goes in from the top from the window opening. Once it is in the channel you can drop it down and install the rollers of the regulator into the channel through the opening in the bottom of the door.
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parrish
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-- 06-18-2011 @ 11:12 AM
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thanks! I thought that might be the case. I had installed the new felt anti-rattlers in the passenger door thinking they might be hard to install once the glass was in, but I will remove them to gain additional clearance at the opening. I also tried the driver door which doesn't have the anit-rattlers on yet, but even that was too tight a fit for the glass frame. I'll try different angles of approach...
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trjford8
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-- 06-18-2011 @ 4:12 PM
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Parrish, on some cars you made need to tilt the glass to get it into the opening. On a 40 fordor that I owned I had to tilt the glass in the rear doors about 30 degrees to get it into the opening. I had to do a similiar thing on my 37 coupe which has a door like a 39. Sorry I didn't mention that in my first post.
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parrish
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-- 06-18-2011 @ 7:27 PM
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I had seen the tilted glass approach in a service bulletin for (I think) a 36, but the 39 has such a large bottom door opening, it seemed reasonable to try. Anyway, I took your advice, but still couldn't clear the window opening with the glass in the channel frame. So, I removed the glass and dropped in the empty frame from the top (still a tight fit) and inserted the rollers into the frame channel. Then I used a little contact cement on the glass bottom and adhered a strip of 1/16 frame webbing. I then dropped in the glass from the top and pushed it down into the channel frame. It seems a good tight fit. Thanks for your help.
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trjford8
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-- 06-18-2011 @ 8:36 PM
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Parrish, are you using repo channels? It sounds like the channels are too long.
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parrish
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-- 06-19-2011 @ 7:42 AM
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nope...well pitted originals (treated and sealed). Even without the anti-rattlers on the driver door, the width (not length) of the channels was the problem. The car has fresh paint and it was a very tight fit with just the empty channel. I had to tilt it in at about a 45 to get past the inside door frame. I can't imagine the channel plus glass making it in without scratching either the car or the glass. The two step install was much easier and took advantage of the large bottom door opening for glass insertion...thanks for the input!
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parrish
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-- 06-19-2011 @ 7:44 AM
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nope...well pitted originals (treated and sealed). Even without the anti-rattlers on the driver door, the width (not length) of the channels was the problem. The car has fresh paint and it was a very tight fit with just the empty channel. I had to tilt it in at about a 45 to get past the inside door frame. I can't imagine the channel plus glass making it in without scratching either the car or the glass. The two step install was much easier and took advantage of the large bottom door opening for glass insertion...thanks for the input!
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